I bought the haynes manual and it told me to ground the A and B from the box (i forgot what its called) located underneath the dash and turn the key to "on" and scan for codes..

now my question is:

Can I use just any wires to ground.
Where do I look for codes..will codes appear in the dash?

thanks

 

Forget what the manual says. It's wrong. You need a real scanner to get codes on your 1994 LT1 car. Shorting the pins won't work.

 

codes appear in the dash?

you're in a camaro bro, not a caddy!

 

Thanks box, yeah i did the search and i found out that I need a tool...

where do I get it at...locally preferably
and how much?

I took my car to the dealership and they said that there was no code, but unfortunately one of my friend says that the dealership mechanic #45 is a slacker and lazy (proved it today, when I drove my car off the dealership, the two injectors were unpluged and I was running really bad on the way home and didnt even know it) So I did not trust them if they did the scanning or not.

again where and how much ASAP.

 

also QUESTIONS:

how hard is it to install:

02, IAC sensor (the one attached to the elbow) and how much for those sensors.

thanks

 

The 4-wire AC/Delco O2 sensors are about $35 each from our "discount" GM parts sources. Removal can be difficult, since they are hard to reach, and often rusted in. Using an "O2 sensor" socket helps, but the socket is big and there's not a lot of room. The drivers side sensor is on the bottom of the exhuast manifold. Passenger side is on the Y-pipe, just below the exhaust manifold.

The sensor in the rubber inlet elbow is the inlet air temp (IAT) sensor. It just pulls out of the hole. Probably about $20. They don't usually "wear out".

The IAC motor is in the base of the throttle body.

 

I remember one thread was saying to remove MAF and drive it and see if thats the problem,, well..

I removed the MAF sensor(a sensor snapping the clip beside the MAF) I dont know if thats the sensor or not, but when I unplugged it the engine shuts off and check engine light came on..put it back on and drove fine untill it chugged really badly, check engine light came on again and gave it gas and disappered.

how do you rule out MAF or MAF sensor.

I dont know anymore, Im going to throw this car into the dumpster

I'm scared that after replacing my plugs/wires/opti/water pump this weekend it will not sove the problems...HELP

 

Actron and Autoxray you may find locally. Just make sure of what you are buying and want, because they make just code readers and also scanners. Probably ~$150.

ACDelco O2s are ~$35 wholesale. IAC ~$50. You can find all sorts of parts listed on my Tech Page.

 

Shobox the MAF sensor on your tech page...oops I pulled the plug on the right side of that picture.. what is that one? the engine cut off, check engine light came on...

so I can disconnect the whole MAF sensor (remove it away from the intake) and leave that plug in there and drive the car or what? whats the right way to rule out the MAF sensor? thanks

 

Also can I get the 160 thermostat locally like autozone, since replacing the water pump..will it be easier to replace the thermostat as well..

 

AZ is notorious for handing out the SBC thermostat for the LT1 (which is wrong). The correct thermostat will be in the $15-$20 range.

I don't think you have anything wrong with your MAF. Did you look at the intake elbow. Also, you are crossing this thread with another. Very confusing.

 

sorry box, but I'm new to the Z scene and loved it when my friend took me for a ride but I didnt know that this is going to be so stressfull looking for a miss problem. Like I said HPfactory from springfield IL is going to replace my opti, water pump, plugs and wires saturday morning but just paranoid I guess on "what if" all this is not going to fix it after reading every post in here got me to be paranoid

I kind of wanted to just replace everything that people had changed to fix their problem that is similar to mine. which is a very wide list. The dealership told me that my water pump is leaking,, but they told me the second day!

the reason why the second day is, the first day the diagnose the car they told me NOTHING IS LEAKING INCLUDING the water pump thats why they did the injector pressure test, and after they told me my injectors are good, I told them that my "low coolant gauge came on one time and I added some coolant in and after 20 min of driving and parked the car, i saw lots of cooland in the ground passenger side) an hour later the tech at the dealership told me that there is a small water pump drip (after they told me the opposite)..I paid 150 dollars by the way at the dealership today.

And after taking off the MAF AND clean the screen,, like I mentioned above, I tried to take off the plug (looks like a sensor) right next to the MAF and the engine light came on and the car died, I put it back and drove the car around the block and it still hesitated but WORSE...this time it just jerks and jerks,, like i give it gas,, and it doesnt go anywhere but jerk,, and after ten jerkes going 15 mph the car smooths out until I hit the stop light and a complete stop, then when I hit the gas again, it repeats the jerking,,,NOW THE JERKING DISAPPEARED but when the temp gets above 220 and the fan both started working it idles crazy like the car wants to go,,idles around 900 to 1200 back and forth even in reverse. and if i put it on neutral or park from drive or reverse the car revs up all the way to 2200 one time and comes back down to 600 and calms down,, it revs crazy two times also when it was in parked. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST BUT THIS IS WHATS GOING ON.. .SHOEBOX HELP!

 

I had a similar problem, except my LT1 would surge from 1-2k. Also my gas mileage took a serious nose dive. I Tried the TPS sensor, both O2's and the IAC. None of them seemed to help but then I noticed the IAC I removed was missing the oring. Well I took the new one back out and removed the old oring Sprayed it all out with carb cleaner and everything is back to normal. Its running a little rough and I think I may have fouled my plugs but its no longer surging. Going to swap out plugs and wires since the car has 80k miles on the original set

Go ahead and get a gasket for the tb since I pretty much had to remove it to get the IAC. Maybe some of these guys can give you tips on removing the IAC w/o taking the TB off.

Good luck I know its a pain in the *** but 50 bucks for trying a sensor is alot cheaper than swapping out your opti. Also get a second opinion about that water pump to be sure....

 

I took out my elbow and check for rips.. sure enough theres two cuts at the bottom where the metal clamps goes, I dont know if this can cause a problem since it should still seal it right because of the metal clamps... i dont know. Anyways I tried to open my throttle body and it was kind of hard... then come to find out it was sticking...there is a lot of gunk and behind the throttle body there is the wet(not so wet almost dry but wet) gunk black almost like oil/fuel thing in it,, i mean dirty.. dont know for sure if this is normal... I'm going to clean out my throttle body tommorow, and wondering how much and part number for the throttle body gaskets.. how gaskets are there to replace when cleaning the throttle body?

do I have to get a new elbow? if so how much do they cost?

 

when I cleaned my MAF i sprayed some all purpose cleaner, just a little bit on the screens,,does this mean i damaged my MAF? oops!