I really just want to get it out of the way enough to remove the center cap and see the bearing condition. If it looks good, I'm just going to out the cap and pan back on. What's the easiest way to get the pan down far enough to get this done? Does the front suspension have to come down?

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It is a pain in the butt. The motor will need to be lifted way up out of the motor mounts and the y-pipe will need to be dropped if that doesn't give you enough room.

 

I've got Hooker Longtubes with no cats, so maybe that will help a bit. I just want to drop the pan and take the center cap off. If the bearing looks good ill just put the cap back on and call it day. If its bad, well then the whole dang engine is coming out! :-)



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Did you do a search? It's been cover in detail many a time.

 

If you drop the pan and everything is good I would install a new oil pan gasket. If you are not running the stock y-pipe that runs directly under the pan then the pan will come right out if you raise the motor and unbolt it. Just be sure to remove that sensor in the pan first.

 

Yes I did a search on a direct answer to my question and didn't find one.

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Thanks. I assume the starter needs to come down as well.

Also, what point would you use to jack up the engine. I'm thinking to just use the bellhousing.

Will I have a enough to fit a ratchet in there and take to the center cap bolts off? Is it ok to use the same bolts when I put it back on?

Do I need to disconnect the coolant hoses before I jack up the engine?



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You may be able to keep the hoses on, but I would drain it and pull them off at the water pump. The starter will need to come off along with the inspection plate. you will have enough room once the motor is up and the pan is off. I used a motor lift to lift my motor, but I think you would be OK to lift it by the front hub or trans pan; the motor mount bolts are a little bit of a pain, but not too bad.

 

I have everything off as suggested, but it seems the oil filter and coolant hose assembly around it is going to be in the way of tapping the motor mount bolt out. Tried prying it out by the head on the other side to no avail. What's the best way to get these bolts out?



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I usually use a metal punch a little smaller than the bolt in diameter and push the bolt out with that; I have put a bunch of extensions together and used that to hammer the bolt out. You need to be sure the motor is being held up just enough to take some weight off the bolts, too much or to little and the bolt will be in a bind making it difficult to remove.

 

I usually use a metal punch a little smaller than the bolt in diameter and push the bolt out with that; I have put a bunch of extensions together and used that to hammer the bolt out. You need to be sure the motor is being held up just enough to take some weight off the bolts, too much or too little and the bolt will be in a bind making it difficult to remove.

 

I used a engine hoist with a chain wrapped around the harmonic balancer. Take the weight off the motor mount bolts and they should simply pull out. Lift the motor up as high as possible taking care not to break the oil pressure sensor on the back of the motor.
Rotate the motor so the very front counterweight is up for more clearance to remove the pan. Don't forget to remove the low oil sensor from the pan, it will hit the oil pickup tube.

 

Will the low oil sensor unclip or do I have to remove that huge bolt?

 

You have to remove the sensor with it's huge hex end. If you leave it in it will break as you ty to pull the pan off.

I've dropped the pan a couple of times and while it isn't easy it is certainly doable. The trick, I think, is to support the tranny and out in longer cross member bolts to allow the back of the tranny to drop down as the engine is lifted.

You don't have to remove any coolant lines.

You must pull the oil level dipstick tube almost out.

The pan will come out easier if you rotate the engine so the arrow on the balancer points to 12 o'clock.

Jack the engine up off the mounts until the manifold just touches the cowl. The tranny will be shifted downward on those longer bolts. Stick something in each motor mount to suport the engine..just for safety sake.

If you have an automatice, remove the torque convertor cover to gain a little clearance. Nothing much that can be done with a manual except wiggle it out.

I wouldn't jack on the balancer nor use a chain on it but that's me. I'd suggest a cherry-picker...

 

I should have said hub not balancer, it's completely fine for supporting the weight of the motor. I had no problems removing mine and didn't need to do a bunch of extra crap. It's an in pretty depth procedure, but it's not hard.