I just had my engine rebuilt and he told me not to wait to long to install it. Well its been about two weeks since I got the engine back and I probably won't be able to get it back in my car for about a week. Can I prime the oil pump to lubricate the new engine or do I need to do something else before I start it up? Also I have heard of spraying wd-40 all over the crank, rods, and cylinder walls to lubricate it would this be a good or bad idea?

 

I'd think you would still be fine. If you want you can yank the intake and reprime the motor. If you've primed it once it isn't any different than not starting your car for 3 weeks.

 

Should be fine...im guessing that the oil pump was primed already. Spraying wd-40 wont do anything.

 

Is the engine already togother? Or still in pieces?

 

The only thing that is together is the rods, pistons, and crank. I am going to be putting the heads on tomorrow while I have it sitting on an engine stand. So it has not been primed yet because there is no oil in it. But I know that they use some kind of lube when they put the engine together and I was just afraid that I would have to re-lube it instead of just priming the oil pump.

 

When all the bearings were installed, there should be a nice coating of assembly lube in all your bearings & cam lobes. It's got a grease-like feel to it, so it won't have fallen out, all those parts are still lubricated. Someone else can chime in about the cylinder walls. Make sure you seal your threads on your head bolts/studs good! Which are you using?

 

I am using some 12 point arp bolts for the heads, and I have GM Pipe Sealant with PTFE four sealing the bolts. Or should I have used the ARP sealant instead?

 

I used the arp sealant for the motor i just finished, fired it up last week, everything is good. About priming the pump,go to the back of the motor where the big hole is, get a long flat blade to put in a drill and let her rip. Put the motor back in, Golen said you dont have to reprime it. I did it again anyways using the starter, remove the pcm fuse and crank until you have pressure.

 

Just so you know, doing this will not lube the upper end of the motor (lifters) because the oil pump drive actually directs oil to them, without it there they will not get any oil. There are special tools made to do this for that reason.

Ryan

 

Thats why you pour oil through the lifter valley and in the valve covers . I've done H/C swap and just put this new motor in with no problems doing it this way either time. I was told to do it this way by Chad (Golen).

 

That still leaves the upper passages dry. I always pour oil on the lifters and valvetrain anyway. It may not be a super big deal, but it's just as easy to use the priming tool that has the collar that allows upper passage flow.

 

Guys... you're over thinking this.


When the engine is in, yank the coil wire and let her crank until the oil pressure comes up. Then put the wire back on and fire it up.

Oh...
Since it's probably fuel injected, you probably want to pull the injector wires too, so as not to wash the cylinder with gasoline and flood it.

 

just remove the pcm fuse and it kills both

 

Not overthinking, IMHO. That's oversimplifying and not near as good as pre-priming. You are still spinning the internals without the presence of any oil. At least with pre-priming, there is that little bit of extra protection. If you are going to worry about it at all, why not take the most cautious route? If they make a special tool to pre-prime, someone must think it has some value.

 

I am definitely of the "prime it with the correct tool" school.

Rich