How not to jack a car down off stands
How not to jack a car down off stands
1. Rush, becuase your excited about finishing your LT header install and wanting to start the car
2. Put an unstable 4x4 between the jack and the skidplate
3. Lower the car too fast
4. have the jack slip and dent the oil pan
5. Swear and throw tools and wake up your mom
Yeah im an idiot, but the good news is i got the old pan off w/o touching the K member or tranny. Jacked up the motor pretty high under the timing cover, but it came out alright. I still havent even started my car since the LT install, so lets hope everything works when i finally finish up the oil pan later this week.


So theres the pan, luckily i still had the stands under the pads so it only compressed the pan 2" or so.
While i was under there i snapped a few pictures just to ask you guys if you think everything looks okay before i close it back up on tuesday. Also does anyone see any harm in leaving the engine jacked up for a few days?




Oil pump and pickup and everything looks okay right?
Just picked up a felpro gasket kit from AZ today. Any tips for putting in the new pan? Thanks guys
2. Put an unstable 4x4 between the jack and the skidplate
3. Lower the car too fast
4. have the jack slip and dent the oil pan
5. Swear and throw tools and wake up your mom
Yeah im an idiot, but the good news is i got the old pan off w/o touching the K member or tranny. Jacked up the motor pretty high under the timing cover, but it came out alright. I still havent even started my car since the LT install, so lets hope everything works when i finally finish up the oil pan later this week.


So theres the pan, luckily i still had the stands under the pads so it only compressed the pan 2" or so.
While i was under there i snapped a few pictures just to ask you guys if you think everything looks okay before i close it back up on tuesday. Also does anyone see any harm in leaving the engine jacked up for a few days?




Oil pump and pickup and everything looks okay right?
Just picked up a felpro gasket kit from AZ today. Any tips for putting in the new pan? Thanks guys
i would replace the oil pump, pickup tube and get a one piece metal oil pump driveshaft while your in there. maybe 80 bucks total for all of that. if you dont decide to do this, the only thing wrong is you have to straighten the pickup tube so it sits parallel with the windage tray
i would replace the oil pump, pickup tube and get a one piece metal oil pump driveshaft while your in there. maybe 80 bucks total for all of that. if you dont decide to do this, the only thing wrong is you have to straighten the pickup tube so it sits parallel with the windage tray
like this one
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP492294/...ductDetail.htm
ouch, yeah you can get a melling metal driveshaft from vatozone for like $6.00. well worth the money if you ask me.
like this one
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP492294/...ductDetail.htm
like this one
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP492294/...ductDetail.htm
If you have some extra money from the tax rebate deal, then you might want to invest in a Moroso oil pan, HV moroso pump and pickup. You'll need that if you ever want to do more serious motor work.
It really couldn't hurt to get a new pump and pickup. You can then spot weld the pickup to make sure it doesn't fall off if you hit something. You absolutely should replace the driveshaft because it's so cheap. The new pump is just cheap insurance.Get the Melling Select high pressure pump. Don't get the high volume unless you go with an aftermarket pan.
If you have some extra money from the tax rebate deal, then you might want to invest in a Moroso oil pan, HV moroso pump and pickup. You'll need that if you ever want to do more serious motor work.
If you have some extra money from the tax rebate deal, then you might want to invest in a Moroso oil pan, HV moroso pump and pickup. You'll need that if you ever want to do more serious motor work.
The OEM has a plastic coupler. I think the actual shaft is metal, but where it connects to the pump it is plastic. The aftermarket ones are all metal.
yeah that is correct. the plastic coupler holds the shaft in place so it doesnt walk off the pump. the driveshaft that i showed you is all metal including the coupler and you will never have to worry about that coupler breaking again or become brittle over time like the stock setup. its cheap insurance if you ask me. at least buy a new driveshaft
good eye. i didnt see that. that definitaly looks like the oil level sensor. i can see the oil pump driveshaft and the plastic thing on that still looks in place(its red.) i think you broke the oil level sensor
Sometimes its hard to lower the car slow w/ those ****ty 2 ton jacks. I know with mine the ****ing nut gets to tight that you have to really muscle it to unleash the pressure and it seems like once the nut breaks you jerk the nut and the car falls real fast until you react.


