How much spray can a 11 to 1 383 take
06-01-2009, 01:59 AM
#17
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Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
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You said a 2 bolt main... are you sure he didn't stud the mains? Going all that way for a forged bottom end to put bolts in seems silly since it is all apart. Studs should help on the mains. May want to ask your builder.
06-01-2009, 02:47 AM
#18
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06-01-2009, 04:24 AM
#19
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Location: Barrie, Ontario
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My A/F ratio was off the chart. It was pegged at over 18 until about 4500 then it dropped down to around 16 so we had to shut it down. It make loads of torque but not much hp. I need a new tune. Hopefully there going to help me out at pcms4less because my tune was so far off.
06-01-2009, 08:43 AM
#20
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My A/F ratio was off the chart. It was pegged at over 18 until about 4500 then it dropped down to around 16 so we had to shut it down. It make loads of torque but not much hp. I need a new tune. Hopefully there going to help me out at pcms4less because my tune was so far off.
06-01-2009, 11:53 AM
#21
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Location: Richmond B.C.
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what kind of heads and cam? get yours tuned right first. thats WAY to high afr for any nitrous use, you should not crutch it by running a fat nitrous pill. also a 2 bolt block is playing with fire, any HINT of detonation and those mains will be bouncing around like a mexican jumping bean. a 2 bolt in a 350 based motor is only really good for 400 flywheel hp any more and you are in danger of premature failure.
06-01-2009, 08:10 PM
#22
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I have stock ported heads with 2.02 1.60 valves and a cc306 cam. I will not run the nitrous untill I sort this out. Bryan at pcms4less thinks there is more to this then a lean tune. He said the car should not even run right with an AF like that. I'm going to try and get a wideband and see if it will come up with the same results as redlines.
06-02-2009, 09:11 AM
#23
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Location: north carolina
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take it from me dont buy the lil 150 shot solenoids ..spend the extra money and get the bigger ones cause when you get use to the 150 and you will you will want to go up ...i have the 383 set up also and im running 250 with no problems and buy the plate you will like it alot better and it looks good also now that injuneer is running a 300 shot im gonna bump mine up also and see what happens
06-02-2009, 03:06 PM
#24
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Your bottom end looks good. I would be more worried about the valvetrain.
2 bolt mains are pretty strong and the majority of bottom end failers are rod bearings or cracked ring lands on stock pistons at around the 200 shot area.. Fuel, valve float, tune are the major things I would worry about with that motor.
Main studs and a girdle would be nice on the 2bolt if your worried and feel like pulling the motor.
2 bolt mains are pretty strong and the majority of bottom end failers are rod bearings or cracked ring lands on stock pistons at around the 200 shot area.. Fuel, valve float, tune are the major things I would worry about with that motor.
Main studs and a girdle would be nice on the 2bolt if your worried and feel like pulling the motor.
06-02-2009, 08:07 PM
#25
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It too late. I got a used nitrous express wet kit for $200. Its good for only 150hp. I need to sort or my AF problems. I only made 336whp and 356torque with a really really lean tune. Wade at redline thinks I can tune another 60-80whp no problem. Has anyone ever see an AF ratio over 18 before.
06-03-2009, 12:04 PM
#26
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I would look into N20 outlet's plate, use it with your used kit. its does very well for equal cylinder distribution even tho its not a DP kit. It should be good till a 200 hit.
On a side note, how high do you spin the motor? rpm's will kill that motor
On a side note, how high do you spin the motor? rpm's will kill that motor
06-03-2009, 12:24 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago area
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you def need to sort out the AF b4 you do anything. Then spray the **** out of it!!
my stock short block, stock ported LE H/I/C makes 425/380 rwhp/tq NA.
Get that car dyno tuned
my stock short block, stock ported LE H/I/C makes 425/380 rwhp/tq NA.
Get that car dyno tuned
Last edited by AChotrod; 06-03-2009 at 12:26 PM.
06-03-2009, 01:32 PM
#28
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I got my tune from pcmforless as well on my ported heads 383/cc306 set up. I have my own tuning software and wideband. When I first started making pulls my A/F was around 15 to 16 to 1 area until I tuned it down to 13.0:1 + or - .2 with the tuning software through the WOT PE table. So yes his tune out of the box prolly should not be run WOT. I had to add way to much fuel to get it right. Now his street driving tables are close but still need some tweeking. I may eventually go to a dyno before I start putting the N2O on it.
10-07-2009, 03:53 PM
#30
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If your still looking for this: I use the FJO wideband(comes with software and .02 sensor). The LC-1 is a good one too. I use datamaster along with the FJO for A/F tuning and to adjust the timing accordingly. I then use Tunercat to program the pcm with the new changes. I have a cable that I bought from akmcables to attach to my personnal laptop. Just do a search on the said Items and you'l get a good idea what your looking at. For all software and hardware w/licenses etc., your talking about $500. If you want to do everything within 30 days of purchasing the items and 20 runs you can get everything for around $300(wideband and akmcable) minus the laptop. You can then purchase the software licenses later if you wanted too.