I'm probably going to be pushing 500RWHP on spray through my stock bottom end, and I was just wondering how stronge they are. Assuming I don't get any detonation, or go lean, I'm hoping it sould last awhile. Mabey even be strong enough for a 150 shot.

 

I know my buddies car had the stock bottom end when he made several 10.1X passes...it still has the stock crank to date and was making just under 700whp before the new heads..

 

It depends on how you do it.

Cam, ALOT of people have blown them making under 350RWHP. There's been alot of guys spinning bearings in these cars once they start spinning them higher than they used too.

N20, Seems like the norm is a 100-125 shot. After that is where things start to let loose. I think its more from the jolt than from the actual amount. Also, alot of clowns spray and spray and spray on the stock fuel pump and ****. So its hard to say. I would think if you want a high HP car on a stock bottom end N2o is the way to go.

Forced Induction : Not many have gone here because of the compression ratio on our cars. Its 10.4:1 stock. Which is pretty high. Detonation occurs and then your pistons take a big ****. Seems iffy though. Some blow fast, some last for a suprisingly long time.

Ya gotta remember, its a 2 bolt main, and they DONT like to rev ... Well, the bearings dont ... lol.

 

my friend put 20k miles on his transam making 390 rwhp H/C with the limiter set at 7000 he was shifting at 6800

 

Maybe he's looking for an excuse to build a 355
shifting at 6800 is a good way to get you there.

 

The two documented cases I've seen of LT1 PM rod failure occured at about 600 flywheelHP. You should be close to the limit. I think the para-noid website has some photos of the destruction.

 

Well heres my dyno chart from a low reading dyno (I know I didn't loose 9rwhp from a ported intake manifold and 58mm throttle body)
http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/dyno_spray.jpg

527 ft lbs of torque

 

Save your money 'cause ya are headed for a new engine.That's almost 600FWHP


This is a 4 bolt cap making about 415FWHP on a 2 barrel circle track engine.
The OP gear is not from the same engine.

 

I just hope it lasts a year, I'm running on the rich side and pulling 6 degrees of timing, so detonation shouldn't blow it up, I just hope it can handle the stress.

 

It will for a little bit. But when that comes-- nobody knows.

Its very hard to drive one on a pass about 110MPH with oil all over the rear tires.

 

Rule of thumb when you go to the dark side is that you better have already been saving for the rebuild, and don't act all surprised & sad when it decides to break.

Here's my carnage after a few years of boost on stock pistons...

 

Kevin, how many PSI were you running on the stock short block? Intercooled? You put alot of miles on it each year? Just curious. I want to do a H/C car, but if my boss wont sticker it, a Pro Charger may be on the list for this winter ... I have Ford 30#'s, so I guess I would really just need a Walbro or Bosch 255, and a great tune for it ...

 

About 7# NI, and a mild cam with AFR heads * headers. I had some mystery with compression in cyl #1 while I was changing the valve springs during my blower install, but didn't do a compression check (no lecture please). I may have had a prob on one of the pistons even before the blower, which is hard to believe, cause it wasn't modded before then and only had 17k miles of easy livin. It cranked like a cyl was a little low for a few years - so maybe it never stood a chance. Blowby got steadily worse. The blower was on there fo 13k mi, 5 years total, about 10 trips to the track with avg 4 passes per. Usually I ran race gas, but not always. Last run ever on those pistons pictured above was 12.4 @ 117 when the head gasket went and I went home uncerimoniously on a flatbed and next day started surfin for rebuild parts. I don't think I ever went lean, but might have detonated due to timing, then later from oil control from the piston damage.

My crank & rods looked perfect with some wear to the rod bearings on the thrust side, crank bearings were so-so, cam bearings were nary a grunion except for a little wear on the front one. Oil pump rotor looked like it swallowed a couple chunks at one time.

If you go FI, 30# isn't enough unless you keep the FMU. I had 42s and was just OK.

 

Alright ... Thanks ...