My motor has had some issues since day one, and now is losing a good amount of oil. I assume it has to be burning it, because its not going on the ground any where. The motor only has about 30k on it. How much do you think it would cost to re ring and new bearings? Is bearings, rings and gaskets all i need? I hopefully shouldn't need any machine work right? It should cost less than $1k right? it only cost me $1600 to do the short block the first time minus the cam/timing chain/lifters. So i'm hoping i can reuse my pistons, rods, and stuff to cut cash. My car has never flowed as much air as it should and its had 2 different cams and 2 different valve trains. So i'm thinking i've maybe always had some blow by. Also do you guys think the heads will need to be redone after only 30k? Ai put new guides and a full rebuild on them when i got them from them. I'm hoping it'll be a lot cheaper than a full rebuild. If not i might as well just get another block and rebuild it then swap it in. Thanks for the input.

 

Bearings and rings are not so expensive, but if you have to bore, the price is going to escalate quickly. You won't know about cylinder wear until you tear it down.

 

Yeah i was hoping it would stay 30 over, but i guess i won't know until i yank it. I'm hoping it can stay 30 over as my buddy got lucky enough to have his 75K motor to stay standard bore.

 

You atleast want new main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, rings, a good hone job (cylinders and rods), freeze plugs, polish the crank a little bit, and a new timing chain would be nice. Personally, I would get a new oil pump and have the pickup welded, new main studs bolts, clean the block and install new freeze plugs but that's would just be personal preference. Of course, you will also new a complete gasket set and head bolts but that's a given. Also, for M6 cars, have the flywheel checked and if theres ANY spots, just turn it and install a shim to compensate. If you haven't had your bottomend balanced yet, now would be a good time. Also, don't forget to check everything and measure because there's no sense in having any doubts when the new engine goes back together. Don't forget to have everythign cleaned and get he carbon out of there, most of the stuff you should be able to do it at home. Hope the helps. LAter.

 

The timing chain (LT4 ED) only has 30k on it and i just had the motor apart for my BRE cam and the chain was fine. Why would i need new Main bolts? I have ARP reusable head bolts that are reusable. The old assembly was balanced when it was rebuilt i was hoping if i honed it and just added rings and bearings i wouldn't need to rebalance it. I guess i'll just plan on spending another $1500 again, and hope that it ends up costing a lot less than that.

 

If you haven't already you should do a leakdown to determine if there is a loss of cylinder pressure before assuming it the bottom end. You could have bad valve guides and seals which will cause significant oil consumption.

 

Can bad guides or seals? cause that much oil loss in such a short time? I figured if i didn't even have any seals at all it wouldn't lose that much oil. I do plan on doing a leak down test. Call me crazy but sometimes when i go to start the car iy sounds like you can hear the pressure bleed off from a cylinder or something. It almost makes a sound like air bleeding past, kind of like if you would put your kips on your arm and blow. I know a goofy analogy.

 

"H" series brg's for all with cam are about $150,Total seal rings about $275,blueprinted oil pump $110,gaskets$175.00,HDtiming set(if needed)$300,plugs,filter,oil,ect.$150,misc $150,machine shop$300=$1610 with no boring. With boring add $500 for a good set of pistons.

Get a set of file to fit and bore or not do a hone.Check crank,vat block,valve job and check and shim springs

Ya can make a set of file to fit work without boring if ya don't have over .008 taper in cyl's.They will probably go 30-50 thousand miles but the piston slap is on you if ya got that much taper.If ya got that much ya can knurl the skirts and stop it for a while.Make sure there are NO shiny spots in ring area after hone if ya do it at home and don't take to much out.Ya can get a berry tree hone to do it.

 

$1600? it only cost me $1600 for the first time the short block was built. I'm hoping if the motor doesn't need to be bored i can just reuse my pistons thats $400 right there. Would i need to rebalance it? if i just pulled it apart and re ringed, new bearings and maybe polish the crank. Would the rods need to be reconditioned again? i was just looking for a rough estimate, but i guess i'll just plan for $1600 again and maybe it'll be less.

 

Depending on the condition of the guides, most definately.

 

Rod's and crank should be OK.I wouldn't even polish the crank if it isn't grooved or got heavy lines in it. Ya increase the clearances to much at least .001.