TT2 are not Mustang wheels. TT2's are actually a knock off of the Cragar SS wheel. SO the stang wheels are crappy knock offs of knock offs. Seen here

now those are some nice wheels.

 

My boyd coddington wheels weigh about 52 pounds each, with a tire mounted. They are 17x8 cast aluminum, with 245/45/17 tires.

From what I can tell, they didn't make any difference (except for the fact the car looks badass now) hehe



http://www.o-t.us/upload/guest/frontangle.jpg

http://www.o-t.us/upload/guest/driversside.jpg

 

I might disagree with the "It's the weight, not the size" comments.

My rationale is, that the bigger the contact patch, the more resistance you will have to changes in direction. I believe some simple laws of physics i.e A body in motion tends to stay in motion come into play here.

I believe the heavier wheels would show differences in dynoing, while huge steam roller wheels would show some differences in handling and braking.

My hypothesis would be that there is a critical point, where you go with an optimum wheel size, and when increasing contact area certain performance aspects degrade until you hit a maximum where increasing size has no effect.

Maybe I'm wrong?

 

What is the optimal size tire for a f-body? 245mm or what? I dont want a tire so big that handling becomes an issue

 

TT2's cragers and the ford mustang wheels all look the same and they come on a mustang so their mustang wheels...17's are to small. They do not look right and they stick out. (tt2's) anyway i just wanted to know if they will slow my car down not how they look

 

What do you mean they stick out? I have 17x9.5 TT2's, they don't stick out any more than any other 17.9.5 wheel.

TT2's are definitely power robbers. I run my stockers when I'm dyno'ing. I haven't done it yet, but plan on dyno'ing between the two sometime. Like others said, the stockers weigh about 45 lbs. each, but my TT2's weigh 54 lbs. each with tires.

- Brent

 

if you look at a camaro with TT2's from the back they stick out because they are deep dish. and because the body kinda curves in.

 

Whats the ideal size for a 16 inch rim though without loosing handling?

 

NSACAR use 15s and F1 13s! mainly to limit the size of the brakes. F1 tires are about 45-50 section ratios.

Race tires can be designed for just about any wheel diameter/width mandated by the sanctioning organization and still perform superbly. F1 mandated grooved tires, but soon grip went up yet again.

FWIW, it's not just weight of the tire wheel, it's the inertia (where the weight is located) that affects acceleration so much. More mass farther from the centerline = more inertia. Yeah, you can get bigger numbers on a chassis dyno with narrower, lighter and/or shorter tires. Jacking up the pressure can also make a difference by reducing rolling resistance.

Hmmm....a dyno operator wouldn't increase tire pressure for the "after" run to make more hp to "prove" a certain mod was worth something, would he? Nah, couldn't happen.

My $.02

 

Yep, I've left my 16's on and gone with the BFG KDW for the solid sidewall that enhances cornering. I would consider going to 17's since they seem to work well with these cars, but more than that and I suspect I'd be giving up waaaay too much in handling, because of additional weight, and too much in the 1/4 as well.

In addition, I have 2 kids in university, and I hope to be able to retire sometime before I die. IOW, I'm cheap!

 

Consider replacing the rubber on 20's I am sure you will end up spending 1100 or more on a good set of 20's so unless the rubber is really good I don't think I would do it

 

You aren't wrong necessarily, but now you are talking tires, not wheels...

 

A heavier tire/wheel combo takes mor energy to spin.
A taller combo changes the rollout over a shorter combo
A taller sidewall makes it easier to hook up but worse in the corners.
Taller or shorter changes your torque ratio

What type of faster/slower do you want to know about?

 

in the 1/4 mile

 

20's at the strip would suck, no sidewall, no traction