The crank key is ok to use instead of the bushing right? Accomplishing the same thing I imagine?

 

For what it's worth I recently degreed my LE3 cam while intstalling it and it was within 0.6°. Checked it twice just to make sure.

 

0.6º? Within tenths? Not saying you didn't do a good job, but excuse me if I find that amusing.

Edit: BTW, this response ties in with my response to SStrokerAce post.

 

Well I just finished making my own custom "backcut 2* offset crank key" out of a Mr. Gasket key. I'll post pics of it in a bit, had to do it since I don't have a keyed hub.

I'll post results once I get the timing set back on and recheck timing.

 

My LE3 cam was right on

 

I guess the tenth number would be an estimate since the markings are to whole numbers.

When you asked about the valve springs, did you mean that the full spring tension may throw the readings off some due to some flexing of the system? I did mine with the heads off and took the readings right off of the lifter. Maybe I'll go back and try it now that the heads are on.

 

my comp is ground on 114 but they want it advanced to 110, when I put mine in it was at 112, so I just used a bushing on the cam

 

Good call Jeff! That is precisely where I am coming from. I'd prefer Bret respond to my question B4 elaborating, but to put focus back on my post to you; if you follow through with the extra effort, kudos to you! I expect you to find that tweeking the degreeing process to 'tenths' to be rather futile or insignificant. Let us know.

Edit: BTW, the way you did it is the accepted way. I do it that way as well. Although, not from a true dynamic viewpoint, the intent is to get you to realize how approaching it more from an actual assembled scenario, may alter the result you are attempting to achieve. At least it has you thinking.

Then there are those that will believe spring pressures on the closing ramps will balance out the effect. Does it really?

 

Okie dokie, put the two degree offset key in, moved it over dead nuts 2*, so now it's only .5* advanced, which is fine by me. BTW, I'm also doing it the 'heads off' method.

Here's my "custom" work.. die grinder got about 15 minutes of use lol...

On the left is the stock key (had to pound it out, that's never a fun feeling), and on the right is a Mr. Gasket 987G 2* offset, backcut on the proper side to retard the cam.

Next up is verifying piston to valve clearance, then on to final assembly. Can't wait to get this motor in.

 

FWIW, mine was degreed by VRE, with the heads off, so I know thats an acceptable way of doing it.

 

Where are you all getting your cam bushings from? Conventional SBC work?

 

Conventional SBC will work. Crank key worked fine for me tho, but I guess the bushing gives you more flexibility.

 

I do it with the heads off, and most times if it's a new build just the cam and crank in the block. I base everything off the lifter not the rocker/valve since that can screw with the numbers due to clearances and flex in the system.

You could with a solid lifter do all the readings from the valve and still get the centerline to find if it's in the right place, as long as the whole system is solid I would imagine you could get close.

Bret

 

I really wish I had seen this post before I installed my LE2 setup.

From I read, this is what I have learned:
-the cam could be ground improperly
-the cam could be dead on
-its a good idea to degree the cam, or at least check

I allready have my heads on the car, basically its allready tuned and I drive the car. How hard would it be to check the degree of the cam with everything installed? Should I take the heads off when degreeing the cam or not?

 

So what is the relation in computer tuning timing and adjusting the cam/crank timing? IE: You install the cam and it's 2* retarded, you buy an offset crank key to fix it dead on 0*. How does that effect what the computer is doing once the car is running?

I hope that is understandable.