Going to do a cam swap, planning on the LE1 or a CC503 cam.

I understand that degreeing the cam is important, however on the LT1 if there is no physically way to correct a timing error via a sprocket then what purpose does it serve. Obviously the only useful information would be catching a bad cam grind.

If I do this then it will be with the engine in the car. I have read that half of you guys say don't bother and the other half say to do it. I have yet to read that anyone regretted not doing and ended up with a bad cam.

Am I going to go wrong throwing one of these cams in my engine without degreeing it?

Thanks

 

But there are guys that have found bad grinds by doing it. If it is bad enough, you could run into piston to valve clearance issues amongst other things. If you can, I would take the extra time and do it. This way, if something comes up wrong or you're "down on power" you can rule that out of the equation. You'll never regret it if do, but it's a possibility you will regret it if you don't.

 

I had my cam degree'd when i put it in, also another good thing to do is have the lobes polished so you have better contact with the rollers. Ive done this on all my cams without a problem

 

When I degreed my cam I found that the the tining events were not as advertised on the cam card for #1 intake. I checked the exhaust and they were off also I then checked #6 since I could do it on the same setup. Not only were the timing events different than the cam card and #1, the lobe centerlines were off by as much as 6*. The guys at AI were great through the whole ordeal and got me another cam from another grinder that was within 1* and .002" lift everywhere.

If I had put the original cam in the engine would have never run right and I would have had no clue why. I have posted this story before and found that it is not that uncommon an occurrence. Moral is: take the time and degree your cam and hope at the end of the process that it was just a waste of time.

 

Moral is: It's never a waste of time.

 

Did mine CC503 from Combination Motorsports and it was dead on

 

Absolutely!
Not degreeing is asking for trouble, both poor performance and damaged valvetrain.

Mine was 6* advanced, that would have been a disaster.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...s/DSCF0209.jpg

Actually, they do make adjustable timing sets for the 95+ LT1 Fbody.
They also make cam bushings which can be used to adjust all models.
I used a 6* bushing to get my cam back to 0*

 

Both my LE2 and LE3 checked in 3* off, one was advanced one was retarded. Used an offset key to correct.

There's a huge thread under my username about this subject with the same title.

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=degreeing+cam

Lots of good info it that one

 

Is there a kit that includeds the wheel and whatever other gizmos I need to do this in the car.?

I have a dial indicator with magnetic base
What do you stick in the lifter bore?

 

A solid lifter with the cup flipped inside out for a flat surface.

If you already have the indicator and base, all you need is a degree wheel, a crank turning nut, and with the heads off, a "heads off" piston stop. All that can be picked up from Summit under the comp brand.

 

please help me

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462635