How to make the stock 10 bolt stronger
My advice is, don't spend your time and money on making something weak, a little less weak. With the money you'll invest in making it "a little less weak", you'll be halfway to getting a 12 bolt. Just wait until this one breaks, then deal with it when you have to.
Ok we all know a 9in or 12 bolt is stronger but that wasnt the question. The only reason im saying something cause im prolly gonna do the same thing. Where is the cheapest places for the "beef up" parts and best name brand, and what are the parts to get?
Originally posted by my94blackz
Ok we all know a 9in or 12 bolt is stronger but that wasnt the question. The only reason im saying something cause im prolly gonna do the same thing. Where is the cheapest places for the "beef up" parts and best name brand, and what are the parts to get?
Ok we all know a 9in or 12 bolt is stronger but that wasnt the question. The only reason im saying something cause im prolly gonna do the same thing. Where is the cheapest places for the "beef up" parts and best name brand, and what are the parts to get?
Detroit Locker, Moser axle shafts, girdle cover !
that should do the trick for you, but even that wont be cheap. i put a girdle cover and detroit in my truck and that 10 bolt is still standing up to the hard driven 35" muds on it. good luck.
that should do the trick for you, but even that wont be cheap. i put a girdle cover and detroit in my truck and that 10 bolt is still standing up to the hard driven 35" muds on it. good luck.
first off, dont buy one of those worthless girdles. an easy, cheap way to upgrade it would be to....
buy a SLP take-out differential (www.slponline.com) $100
and weld your axle tubes.
i have tested that setup in a 350 RWHP A4 that ran low 12's. made over 50 passes so far.
a 9" or 12 bolt would be nice, but isnt needed with a A4. if it is a M6, u can do the same as mentioned above but it wont stand up to as much and a 9" will be needed at some point or another. however, i ran a 13.0 on consistant 1.8 60' times on ET streets with the above setup on a M6 and did fine.
buy a SLP take-out differential (www.slponline.com) $100
and weld your axle tubes.
i have tested that setup in a 350 RWHP A4 that ran low 12's. made over 50 passes so far.
a 9" or 12 bolt would be nice, but isnt needed with a A4. if it is a M6, u can do the same as mentioned above but it wont stand up to as much and a 9" will be needed at some point or another. however, i ran a 13.0 on consistant 1.8 60' times on ET streets with the above setup on a M6 and did fine.
Originally posted by phil94-T/A
Ollie you should buy the Mac girdle that Andy is selling..........good price, and it will do the job for now..........
Ollie you should buy the Mac girdle that Andy is selling..........good price, and it will do the job for now..........
Originally posted by my94blackz
who is andy? I would like to chat bout that girtle like i said im doin the same as ollie. With 4.56s im gonna need all the help i can get!!
who is andy? I would like to chat bout that girtle like i said im doin the same as ollie. With 4.56s im gonna need all the help i can get!!
Wow why are you going with a 4.56?
I have a friend who's just had some of his rear end parts cryoed. I'm interested to see how it holds up. I think he also has an Eaton posi, and he was launching close to or at 4K RPMs on ET Streets in an M6. The motor blew from nitrous, so while it's out, he did the cryo treatment.
I'll be sure to update that once it's all back together.
I'll be sure to update that once it's all back together.


