How the hell do you adjust the idle stop screw?
#4
Its a torx bit. VERY hard to get to if its on the car. Forget the exact size, sorry. The TB gasket also covers the opening for the screw, so you have bend tab on the gasket out of the way if you havent already.
As for not meant to be adjusted, try getting your IAC to work well enough on a built motor.
It will NOT, i repeat, WILL NOT adjust your idle however (unless you crank it all the way open, or bottom it out so that the IAC cant keep up). The computer is in charge of that via the IAC. If the IAC isnt big enough or quick enough to allow in enough air, you can crack the blades a tad to allow the extra air in needed to idle correctly.
#5
Originally posted by atljar
Its a torx bit. VERY hard to get to if its on the car. Forget the exact size, sorry. The TB gasket also covers the opening for the screw, so you have bend tab on the gasket out of the way if you havent already.
As for not meant to be adjusted, try getting your IAC to work well enough on a built motor.
It will NOT, i repeat, WILL NOT adjust your idle however (unless you crank it all the way open, or bottom it out so that the IAC cant keep up). The computer is in charge of that via the IAC. If the IAC isnt big enough or quick enough to allow in enough air, you can crack the blades a tad to allow the extra air in needed to idle correctly.
Its a torx bit. VERY hard to get to if its on the car. Forget the exact size, sorry. The TB gasket also covers the opening for the screw, so you have bend tab on the gasket out of the way if you havent already.
As for not meant to be adjusted, try getting your IAC to work well enough on a built motor.
It will NOT, i repeat, WILL NOT adjust your idle however (unless you crank it all the way open, or bottom it out so that the IAC cant keep up). The computer is in charge of that via the IAC. If the IAC isnt big enough or quick enough to allow in enough air, you can crack the blades a tad to allow the extra air in needed to idle correctly.
I got it turned using vise grips but that was a PITA, I will try the needlenose pliers this next time.
#6
I couldnt remember what the hell to adjust it with, i tried all difrent torx bits, screw drivers and nothing would do it. So i took my stock one off and looked.... and it just uses an allen wrench. (I don't remember what size offhand though)
#7
Originally posted by gamecockfan04
Take some needle nose pliers and you'll see where the screw comes out at the front of the TB. Grip the screw and turn it a little there.
Take some needle nose pliers and you'll see where the screw comes out at the front of the TB. Grip the screw and turn it a little there.
#8
Originally posted by Loadre
That's the exact problem I'm having. Bryan at PCMforLess suggested opening them a tad because the car stumbles and almost dies when I come to a stop. It's idling too high as well. This should fix it shouldn't it?
That's the exact problem I'm having. Bryan at PCMforLess suggested opening them a tad because the car stumbles and almost dies when I come to a stop. It's idling too high as well. This should fix it shouldn't it?
I'm asking because I don't know if it will work on a computer controlled engine. Works well on carbed engines though.
Someone here should know for sure.
-Mindgame
#9
Originally posted by Loadre
....I got it turned using vise grips but that was a PITA, I will try the needlenose pliers this next time.
....I got it turned using vise grips but that was a PITA, I will try the needlenose pliers this next time.
#11
Originally posted by simple
without pulling the throttlebody off, its a MPITA to get any kind of tool in there to turn it
without pulling the throttlebody off, its a MPITA to get any kind of tool in there to turn it
Mindgame, would do that except the stop screw does the exact same thing, but it is reversible. Sorta hard to un-drill holes in the TB blades.
Thanks Injuneer for the correct size.
The guys that have adjusted theirs, How many turns did you go? I went 1 full turn and it helped a tad. Started changing the oil and added another 1.5 turn for 2.5 total. We'll see how that does.
#12
From the factory the throttle body idle screw has thread sealer on it. It is also installed from the back side. On all of my motors I take out the screw and install it from the front. Once the thread sealer is gone you can also turn the screw using needle nose pliers while the engine is running.
Daren
Daren
#13
Originally posted by Loadre
That's the exact problem I'm having. Bryan at PCMforLess suggested opening them a tad because the car stumbles and almost dies when I come to a stop. It's idling too high as well. This should fix it shouldn't it?
I got it turned using vise grips but that was a PITA, I will try the needlenose pliers this next time.
That's the exact problem I'm having. Bryan at PCMforLess suggested opening them a tad because the car stumbles and almost dies when I come to a stop. It's idling too high as well. This should fix it shouldn't it?
I got it turned using vise grips but that was a PITA, I will try the needlenose pliers this next time.
How high does Bryan have the idle set? If you just put a cam in the car, its going to have to idle a few hundred RPM higher than it used to. However if its above 1000 rpm, I'd first look for vacuum leaks before i even touched the throttle stop screw.
"How many turns" question...
Im not sure on mine. I used a scan tool and monitored the IAC counts. I tired to get it to idle at about 35 counts when fully warmed.
Mindgame-
You can still drill out the blades. Ive seen a few cars like that, but as already said, you cant undril the hole if you change things down the road.
Cheers all.
#14
Actually it's idling OK. He has it set at 900 at it's idling from 900-950. In open loop the IAC count stayed right around 55. I adjusted the stop screw as far out as I could without making a massive change in idle. Not gotten to drive it yet to see if it still stumbles. I've got some datamaster logs if you would like to look at them.
Brian
Brian