im kinda just looking for options on what to do with this cam install and what will net me the most gain... how hard is a solid roller setup and what are the advantages and disadvantages to it?

 

i don't know a ton, but solid roller setups need new valve train, lifters, rockers etc. i think. they also require alot more maintence, and really shouldn't be daily driven. what really pushed me away was they are supposed to make noise. some do some don't, but solid roller cars tick.
supposed to make more power though.

 

unless you are making tons of power, the pro's don't outweigh the con's. You're better off sticking with a hydraulic setup.

 

What all has been posted so far is accurate info. I was in the same boat as you. I had just got my hands on a set of LT4 heads (untouched) and a LT4 intake manifold. I got this guy who is really well known in the LT1 world (Jordon Musser) to port the hell out of those heads. He asked what my plans for the car was because he was going to get me a custom grind Hydraulic roller camshaft.
Once he found out I was planning on building a 383 LT4 motor that I was going to spray about a 350 shot on top of at the track, he said "You should definately consider a solid roller setup." I had never even researched what all the pros/cons of a solid roller setup were. he basically sold me on the things he told me about how solid roller setups behave. You get a very sturdy/steady valvetrain with a solid roller, but obviously you have to pay for that valve train also. Apparently they are a very smooth reving setup. Jordon stated that his solid roller setup was so dead on smooth on the highway that it drove like it was damn near stock. The solid roller cams will PULL all the way thoughout the RPMs. They don't like peak at 6400 rpm and then drop off like most Hydraulic setups. They will continually pull to wherever you shift at. Apparently the custom ground Cam Motions Solid roller camshaft I am going with will pull to 7200 RPM, and would go more if the PCM wouldn't shut off the fuel supply on the stock PCM. Solid rollers "generally" make more power than a hydraulic setup.
Cons though are apparently the valve springs need to be swapped out about every 10000 (a lot of abuse) to about 20000 (everyday driving with occasional abuse) miles before they need to get changed. You have to run special lifters. Adjusting Valve Lash needs to be done about every oil change to about every other oil change (somewhere in the 5000-6000 mile area).

But If you aren't going for big horsepower, then just stick with a hydraulic setup. My valvetrain components alone cost me well over a 1000.00 for valvesprings/locks/retainers, lifters, pushrods (custom), camshaft, roller rockers, studs, etc...

 

I had no problem with my solid roller in a daily driver, which my car was for the first year+ after the stroker build. A check of the lash at 6K miles showed minor adjustments required. Now I adjust the valve once a season, but I don't put that many passes on it. But unless you are looking for 7,000+RPM, its questionable whether the hassle is worth it. You may also run into problems with the knock sensor as a result of the increased noise (I don't run a knock sensor).

 

I had good luck with my solid rollor also, lash every oil change and minimal adjustment. Just a nightmare trying to lash engine hot after removing aftercooller and accessarys, next short hydralic for that reason.

John

 

I have a solidroller setup also. Have noe proplem with it. Cost over 1000.00 to put it in though, but well worth it. Just like texasta said its great and it pulls forever and through out the wholr entire rpm range. People will say its not for daily driver, but I drive mine whenever its nice out. Its a little loud ,but I like the way it sounds. People that dont know much about cams think that you need oil....I just laugh....

 

If it's a street motor daily driver deal the only issue I can see is the spring pressure on the lifters and how much oil they see.... Too much and it can be a big problem down the road. If you do it right just check the lash during oil changes or every few thousand miles too see if anything has changed.... AND IF IT HAS DON'T FIX THE LASH FIND OUT WHY IT CHANGED!!!! Most times it's telling you your lifter or springs are in need of rebuild or replacement.

Bret