I came across these rods Ive heard some real good things since alot of the local track guys run these and like them alot. Im looking to piece together a stroker in the next couple months and started with some early homework.

So how do these compare to others on the market? They seem to have a very good reputation around here.

 

Good question.

They make one hell of a rod. Depending on what you are using them for different ones work for different purposes.

The "Sport Rods" are basically a upgrade to a Eagle H Beam and can take a whole ton of abuse, especially on a street car. There are some things you need to look at with a street motor and rod selection. Shot peening, heat treating, dowel pin caps, and the good ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts are all a good ideas. I think that the sell for about $50 more than a Eagle H beam too. A compareable Eagle H with those rod bolts is going to run more expensive than a Howards Sport Rod.

The rated HP on the rods, for example the 750hp that the "Sport Rods" take is what they will do at constant high rpm load. They are basically rated for circle track cars. So a 700hp circle track car at 7500rpm would use these rods and not worrry about them breaking. A LT1 with a blower or a heathly shot of N2O could be making 800-900hp easy and since it's most likely not going to turn over 7,000rpm (unless you have FAST, but then you probably be playing with more expensive parts then) A 750hp rod rated for a circle track car is good for a 850HP Drag car.

The things that break rods are RPM first and HP second. Since a street car doesn't spend most of it's time at 6,000+RPM the rods don't get nearly stressed as much.

Now If I was planing on a engine that was to go 8,000rpm and have 900-1000+hp I'd probably go with a billet rod.

The midweight rods they don't make anymore but the "Sport Lite Rod" on the site is a great rod for something like a Solid Roller 355, NA 383 (Solid or HR), and could even take a mild shot of N2O. The good benefit of them is the light weight. A 560g rod is pretty dam lite for a forged rod. It's about 100g's lighter than a Eagle H beam, so it's going to make the crank live longer due to not stressing it as much along with the benefit that the lighter parts will help accerate the engine/vehicle faster. If you've driven a car with a light wieght rotating assembly (rods, crank, pistons) then you know what that instant throttle response feels like. The desing of that rod is really good for a forged piece, the use of the 3/8 bolts vs the 7/16 ones shows that they wanted to make them bolt stong and light. I've seen them live in a dyno motor, that was went into a street rod at 550hp and not have a single problem. So a 500HP Rod rated for a cirlce track car is good for about 600HP on a drag car, one reason I say this is a great street rod.

One other good thing is that the "stroker clearance" that they have means that you most likely don't have to use a aftermarket oil pan with them. That right there makes them worth the money.

Bret

 

Ok, I like what Im hearing. It looks like these may be a good possibility when I start getting parts together.

I like the fact a stock oil pan will work and I want to get a fairly light rotating assembly....hmm

What pistons will these work with? What are your recommendations for cranks in a combination with this rod? Do you have any prefrences?

 

Standard Small Block Pistons will work with any of these, as long as they are the right part for the rod length and stroke.

Cranks are the same way, it all depends on what you are using it for.

Bret

 

Yep,
Howards (not to be confused with the aluminum rod maker) makes a damn good rod..... funny that guys are just now really starting to notice their stuff although they've been big with the CT guys for a while now.
I ran a set of Sport Lite's in a 357 ci race motor... n/a, 7800 rpm shifts, only changes made throughout the season were valvesprings. For the money, they're a very nice lightweight I-beam rod.
If you're going with a lightweight rod then you should stay with a lightweight piston. I'd try to use something 400-440 grams for an n/a engine.
The piston is the most important part of the equation. Even a lesser rod will live with a lightweight piston... but a heavy piston at enough revs will tear a decent rod apart.
As for lightweight cranks.... same story. A ~55 lb crank is good enough for a 6500 rpm street and a swap to a lightweight (~40 lbs) aint gonna be worth much if anything..... just $ out of your pocket.

-Mindgame

 

I'm running a Howards soild roller cam kit in my dirt track car and love it!!! They have good customer service and can answer most any question.

sw