I can't seem to get the passenger side header in from the bottom or the top. What's the trick?? I have the passenger motor mount bolt out and the engine tilted up about 1.5 inches, about as high as it will go.

Should it go in from the top or the bottom? Kooks steped 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 headers.

 

If I remember right,it goes in from the bottom.You need the car high.And point the collecter straight down.

 

I ended up having to pop off the passenger side valve cover to get the header in from the top.

 

I just went through that with my LT's I ended up having to put it in before my head went on. Which by the way still sucks.

 

Well, after several tries, I determined that the 1 7/8 stepped headers were no way going in from the top. So I ended up grinding off the huge lip on the K-member subframe, that allowed me to get the rear header flange past the bottom of the fire wall, but then the front flange was wedged under the upside down "U" shaped tube coming off the AC compressor.
So I completely removed the pass side motor mount so I could slip the front flange down and under the "U" tube and then slide it up beside in the correct position......So I got them in from the bottom.
I'm really starting to hate working on this 95 TA, I'm having someone do the heads/cam swap and I think thats it for this one...its right up there with my '79 on difficultly to work on..think I stick to my truck and GN, they are easy compred to this.

 

And I thought 1 3/4 pacesetters were a pain ... all the more reason to dump the a/c system

 

from the top. take off the valve cover/oil filler tube. i did not jack up the motor to get mine in. takes lots of prying/pulling/forcing.

 

Well %^^%^@$$%%^!! Now that I got the exhaust finished out, once they get to op temp, they rub the steering shaft really bad, making it difficult to steer....so now the driver side has to come off and meet the hammer!! This really ticks me off.... I'll post some pics of the true dual setup on another thread..

 

i had to cut a small piece off of the trans belhousing, take off the pass valve cover, oil dipstick tube, jack up the engine, make a small dent in one of the primarys with a hammer, and pry the **** out of it to get the pass side in through the top. your not gonna safely get it up high enough in your garage to get it in from the bottom.

 

I ran into the same thing with the trans bellhousing, But Im running a th350 which has these useless 'ears' that stick out farther than the sides of the block where it mates up. Had to break out the cordless sawzall

 

I swear after working on these things a few years that it's practically easier to lift the body of the car off the motor to work on it. You actually found the answer on your own, but it sure makes a header install a lot easier by taking it off of the motor mounts.

Mine is a lot more manageable now that I've dumped the AC and Power Steering. The MadMan rack is nice, but I have to tell you turning my front 275-40 tires is no piece of cake. Add to that a new street twin and a 3 point turn turns into a 20 point turn.

 

i tried going in from the top (passenger side) on my pacesetter lt's. even with the valve cover off, that sob WILL NOT go in. one of the primarys hit the head way too much to try and force it. anyone else with suggestions? i tried going in from the bottom with the car on the 4th notch of the jackstand. anymore is too dangerous.

 

How close are you coming in from the bottom? If your close taking the motor off one or both of the mounts will usually work. If heighth is an issue put your stands on some cinderblocks or pieces of four by four. Of course be careful, no one wants to hear about a fellow board member getting pancaked by their own LT1.

 

all i can say is it's pretty tight underneath. i may can get the header at a 45 degree angle at the most. it's eating me up cause i'm ready to see the outcome of this whole installation. once it's in, the loudmouth will be bolted on from my new ory. i'm getting impatient thinking about it.

 

Like someone said earlier the header will be almost perpendicular to the ground, you need to get it the car way up. I had no trouble at all with the passenger side. I swear it took me no more than 5 minutes to take out and no more than 5 minutes to put it back in.

Of course I had the rear of the car on ramps and the front I had to creat an 8" raised deck to place the jack stands on. I used (4) 4"x8"x16" CMU blocks each side with a plywood cap to spread the load of the jack stand. The car was not high enough to install from the bottom with jack stands only, the extra 8" is needed and once you have it up...very easy. The driver side is a whole other story