street demon2k3

i have a bad leak coming from the block where the oil dipstick tube goes. it leaks pretty bad and the underside of the car is full of oil. the passenger side header is full of oil and the car spokes pretty bad when driving. anyone know how to fix this? please i really need help.

wrd1972

Clean everything real good and put some RTV on the tube then slide it in. Then pack some RTV around the block opening once installed. You will need to pull the starter to get room to work.
No more leak.

street demon2k3

did you have the same problem? isnt there a rubber boot that goes in with the oil dipstick tube or am i wrong? what type of rtv should i use cuz i have a few laying around sometwhere? sorry for all the questions.

wrd1972

Yes I had the sam problem. No there is no rubber boot. Grey permatex RTV.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

He's right - that will work. I used black, but just sealing it up is the key.

street demon2k3

im about to get the damn thing fixed and i was just wondering how long i should let the RTV sit before i use the car? might have a race with a h/c '88 mustang later tonight so i wanna make sure before i do anything stupid. thanks guys.

shoebox

Do you want to race or have it not leak? Your choice.

street demon2k3

well i just took the dipstick tube out and sprayed some brake cleaner in it, and it seems that it has a pinhole where the engine bracket is. im going to try and use RTV to plug it up and then do the same for the block/tube meet. how long should i let the RTV sit before i use the car?

Shoebox- i dont wanna blow the engine just yet, i guess the stang will have to wait till i get the leak cleared up.

Severous01

the RTV needs to set about 16 hours to fully cure...depending on thickness of the stuff.

oh, and there should be a rubber gasket that goes on the dipstick. i just rebuilt my motor a few years ago and i definitely remember having hell with the dipstick tube. i had to tie a string to the tube and pull down on it while someone sprayed wd-40 on it and pushed down...grrr...just thinking about it makes me mad. took me about an hour to get it done. do not use vise grips or pliers, do not use wood, and dont use RTV to fix somthing that has a rubber gasket. it will fix the problem but it's a ghetto fix.

for those who really want to know which knot i tied on the dipstick...it was a timber hitch with 3 lashes...look it up for pictures/how to...i'm not going to explain it here.

shoebox

I've never seen a rubber gasket for the dipstick on any GM engine I have ever worked on (including my LT1). The factory service manual mentions none and there is none seen in the parts book. The FSM says to use some sealant on the tube.

daruff

i wouldnt jimmy-rig that hole with RTV, might as well buy a new one.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Cure time is mostly based on temp. That's why it is called RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanizing

wrd1972

You need to get you priorities straight if you must ask a question like this.

You can lightly sand the tube down a bit so it more easily slides into the block. Mine actually slides in and out with no effort at all but requires a dab of RTV. By doing this there is no risk of breaking or damaging the tube and getting it stuck or worse like breaking it off in the block which has been done by others on the forum.


Shoe is right, there is no rubber boot.
I just paid $10.78 for a new dipstick tube from Sam Taylor.