so where would a resistor go? theres only one wire going to the knock sensor

 

Well, the logical thought would be between the one wire, and ground.

 

The resistance range for the OBD-I knock sensor is 3300-4500 ohms, so a resistor in that range should suffice.

 

Im not sure on a 93, but the 94-95 OBD-1 you just put a 4.7k resistor after the computer and ground it to something good. On my 94 I was having constant false knock verified by a scanner and 110 octane, Also in my case the LT4 knock module did not help the problem. My car would pull up to 9* false knock after I wired the 4.7k resistor in place the scanner showed 0* being pulled. Follow the wire coming from the knock sensor up to the wire harness, cut the knock sensor end off then splice the resistor to a good ground in place of your Knock sensor. You will love going from 10* to 0* being pulled (major power gain), my car has had this done to it for 20,000 brutal miles. Just listen for detonation and pinging.
Later,
Josh

 

I just replaced mine as well

I had to remove the starter and used a swivel head on my ratchet to get the correct angle of attack.

had it out is 60 seconds

note the sensor acts as one of the block drain plugs - so be fast and be prepared for a mess.

 

thanks. did you use a 7/8" socket or is it some goofy metric size? 7/8 fits but it kinda slips and its starting to strip it

 

I'm trying to do this as well to drain my block but the inside part just spins and nothing else. Does it come out this way?

 

anyone else done this? is it 7/8 or a metric size?

 

Sounds like a major pita. Is the best solution to just do the resistor mod? Whats gonna make the engine knock anyways? I'm always using the best gas anyways..

 

I believe its a metric size. I dont remember off hand, but I used a deep metric socket, short 1/2" extension, then a swivel and then a 6in long extension(2 depending on what you like) on top of that. I removed the sensor in about a minute or 2 with the starter in. Just watch out for the downpour of coolant thats gonna come out when you pull that plug out.

If the center part spins, it means you broke the center part of the sensor and you need to get a large pair of waterpump pliers or big pliers in there to screw it out of the block. Its not a big deal s this happened to me before.

BTW, when you install it, you DO NOT not tighten it down until its extremely tight. You need to torque it down to 14 ft/lbs of torque. I got this spec from my GM mechanic because he said if its too tight, it will read knock when you dont really have any. So when you go to tighten it down, take off the 1/2" ratchet and put on the 1/2" torque wrench set to 14-16 ft/lbs. WHen it clicks, stop there as you shouldnt have any leaks. The sensor should come with a red sealant on the threads so you are ok. Anything else pm me or something. I have done this many times, and make sure you dont drop it cause then its no good. (dont ask how I know this?

Brian

 

It is a metric socket. I am not sure which size. I used a small extension, a swivel, and a cordless impact, and I had mine out in about 5 minutes. Just make sure that you have the new one in our other hand. If you have to search for it while the old one is out, you will be showering in coolant. I had to change my buddies because he switched from the OBDII to the OBDI. You shouldn't have to take anything else loose, or completely off.

Good luck.

 

damn, my metrics only go up to like 15. anyone know the size so I can go buy it?

 

metric 22mm - torqe to 19 ft lbs

 

thanks

 

A metric 22 is basically the same size as an english 7/8. 7/8" = 22.22500 mm, so if a 7/8 fits it, a 22mm will be a little more loose.