LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

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Old May 4, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

I don't really see one or hear one anywhere which is kind of strange, but apparently I have a leak on my driver side according to my o2 sensor.
I thought I had a failing O2, so I replaced it, and it is still reading the same 80mv~ at 2000 and below. 2000 and above, the car reads around 800mv~.
Passenger side never has an issue.

Here's my log file just for fun. CC503/t56 built stage 2, etc.....
Ran from a cop at the end....believe it or not, take it as you believe it.

Thanks guys

http://rfiles.com/files/_camaros/pro-tune-run-3.uni
Old May 4, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

You have DTC 48 for the MAF sensor, and it frequently hangs at 471 GPS, indicating an open circuit. Have you investigated this?

In open loop, warmed up, the target idle speed is 800 RPM (stock tune for an M6), but it's idling at 1,600 to 2,000 RPM. IAC is at 0, so it would appear to be getting air from some other source.

In open loop, Cell 16 (idle cell) left BLM is 160 (max allowed by stock programming) and it's pouring fuel into the left bank, producing O2 sensor readings above 1,000mV. Right bank is running almost as rich with a 128 BLM.

Also have codes for left bank lean (44), fan #1 fault (77) and failure of the reverse lockout circuit (83).

When it goes into closed loop, the idle slowly comes down to 900 RPM (still higher than target, but IAc is still 0) and now the left bank O2 sensor is reading 44-60mV, the left BLM is holding 160, and its pouring in more fuel with a 190+ short term.

At same time, the right BLM in Cell 16 has dropped to 80, the short term to 60 and the right O2 is still an elevated 950mV. Stock programming limits the minimum BLM to 108, so something is really screwed up, or the PCM has been programmed to allow lower BLM's.

MAP is then 60+ kPa, indicating a moderately large cam (or another problem). Seems a bit high for the 503, but might be OK. 35-deg of spark advance at idle seems excessive.

Almost looks like you have the O2 sensors wired to the wrong sides...

At record 2300 it drops out of closed loop, the idle then jumps to 1500 RPM. And at that point the Cell 16 BLM's are 160 left and 80 right.

Do you see the same data? It's almost like this log was run with a software version that isn't compatible with the software I have. But I've never seen this many oddball reading in any log I've looked at over the years. It's so screwed up I tried to use the 93 software, but it obviously isn't a data log for a 93.

By the way.... what year is the car?

At record 5984 the MAF sensor craps out again and doesn't appear to recover.

You need to fix the obvious problems. High idle, MAF fault, etc.
Old May 4, 2012 | 11:35 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Yeah sorry about the lack of description, I didn't think anyone would really take the time to analyze the run.
I basically unplugged the MAF by hand a couple times while recording, just to see if anything got better while driving, and to record how the car acted like that so that's why I kept getting that DTC.

This motor went into a 92 camaro, and I only have 1 fan, which is run through "fan 2" I guess. So you can ignore that one. The reverse inhibit circuit, something is screwed up with the wiring even though it's plugged in..., I can manually override that by force, so you can ignore that.

Good guess on the o2 sensors maybe being switched. Since this is a retrofit, maybe I accidentally hooked each side up to the wrong side. Can you tell me, which side is left bank, which side is right bank? And which square in datamaster for o2 readers (R or L) is each located? For instance, should (R) in datamaster be the passenger side?

The passenger side I had issues with some of the bolts for the headers when I first installed the engine, so I believe there may have been a leak there prior, but I got them in exceptionally well this time so not sure about whether that side is leaking. Would definitely make sense though.

I had a e-mail tune ordered from LT1 PCM Tuning - Welcome!, and the guy has been helping me, just surprised he didn't see what you did.

Still makes me wonder why my idle is so damn high though. Here's what my engine looks like currently, maybe this air filter is allowing too much air through causing high idle? I know that's a dumb question so nevermind. Only reason I asked is because that thing is LOUD sucking air in when on. All of my vacuum ports are either capped/connected with new line. The only one I may have an issue with is the pcv one being broken/split at the neck of the hose. Perhaps that would cause a high idle?



I raced my friend in his stock 97 z28 (lt1/t56) today, and with my 3.08 open, and his 3.42posi, we both were off the line at around the same time. I pulled on him pretty good though enough for 2-3 car lengths at 60mph. I can still feel when that spark retard kicks in though, it's like I'm having ponies stolen in real time lol.

Last edited by RyanEricW; May 4, 2012 at 11:41 PM.
Old May 4, 2012 | 11:46 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

This is the run I did yesterday, MAF should've been plugged in, using the old oxygen sensor. That's the only difference.

http://rfiles.com/files/_camaros/pro-tune-run-2.uni
Old May 4, 2012 | 11:54 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Perhaps the o2's being switched is why I sometimes get a loud POP through my exhaust, the computer is dumping fuel where it doesn't need it?
Old May 5, 2012 | 06:35 AM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

LEFT = driver's side = cylinders 1/3/5/7

RIGHT = passenger side = cylinders 2/4/6/8

The air filter isn't causing high idle. The air has to be getting into the intake manifold to increase idle speed, or entering at the interface between the intake manifold and the heads. What PCV hose is cracked - the vacuum line or the vent line from the throttle body to the passenger valve cover? The first is a vacuum leak, the second isn't, but it would represent air bypassing the MAF sensor.

I'd stop driving it the way it's running. It could be running so rich it's washing down the cylinder walls and going to damage the rings. Does the oil smell of fuel?

And you were driving it for the last 1/2 of the first data log with the MAF sensor intentionally disconnected? What did you expect to accomplish with that?

You mention you can feel the spark retard. Where is that in the data log? There's a single frame with 10-deg, and one other area I saw with a couple degrees, but otherwise you don't appear to have a problem with knock retard.
Old May 5, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Check the O2 sensors - the harness must be swapped left to right. When it goes into closed loop, the left bank O2 sensor drops real low, and in response the right bank Cell 16 BLM starts to drop like a rock.

This is a 95 wiring harness. Take a look at where the O2 sensor wires are.

Courtesy of Shoebox:

1995 Z28 A4 Engine Harness

At the end of the log when the idle finally drops down where it belongs, its got 35-deg of spark advance..... looks excessive. I'm used to seeing about 20-deg.
Old May 5, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Originally Posted by Injuneer
LEFT = driver's side = cylinders 1/3/5/7

RIGHT = passenger side = cylinders 2/4/6/8
Which one is bank 1 (driver side, since cyl 1 is there?)
Which one is bank 2? (pass side ?)

Originally Posted by Injuneer
What PCV hose is cracked - the vacuum line or the vent line from the throttle body to the passenger valve cover? The first is a vacuum leak, the second isn't, but it would represent air bypassing the MAF sensor.
I don't have a vacuum line for the pcv system afaik. Systems deleted are AIR/EGR/EVAP. I have the gas tank evap line still connected to the charcoal canister, but it is not hooked up to the computer.
I only the vent line from the TB to the valve cover. The rubber vent line is cracked at the tb.

Originally Posted by Injuneer
I'd stop driving it the way it's running. It could be running so rich it's washing down the cylinder walls and going to damage the rings. Does the oil smell of fuel?
I'll check today, hopefully that's not the case though.

Originally Posted by Injuneer
And you were driving it for the last 1/2 of the first data log with the MAF sensor intentionally disconnected? What did you expect to accomplish with that?
I expected my problems to disappear or for the car to at least improve somewhat if I drove without it plugged in. Reason being I've done it on other cars, where if the MAF is usually at fault, if I disconnect it, I can get the car to run better.
One time I had a truck that had such a bad air filter, the truck would crank, and not start. I unplugged the maf, and voila it started. I knew it was the air filter or maf at that point. Turned out to be an airfilter =)

Originally Posted by Injuneer
You mention you can feel the spark retard. Where is that in the data log? There's a single frame with 10-deg, and one other area I saw with a couple degrees, but otherwise you don't appear to have a problem with knock retard.
Hmm maybe I was wrong about that generalization, and it must be the way the car is running that makes it feel that way.
Old May 5, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Bank 1 = LEFT = driver's side = cylinders 1/3/5/7.

Bank 2 = RIGHT = passenger side = cylinders 2/4/6/8


In Datamaster, for items like the LTerm Counts, STerm Counts, BPW mS, INJ DC, and O2 mV, the left side of the engine is in the left column, and the right side of the engine is in the right column.

The PCV valve should have a vacuum connection. Again, lacking info on the year of the engine, it makes it harder to describe the hookup. In a 94 engine, there is a U-shaped tube that bends directly back from the PCV valve and connects to a vacuum nipple a couple inches behind the PCV valve. This is my 94:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../dOptivac1.jpg

On the 95, the PCV valve vacuum connection is at the front of the intake manifold, under the throttle body. Shoebox has a photo:

http://shbox.com/1/pcv_pipe.jpg

Last edited by Injuneer; May 5, 2012 at 02:40 PM.
Old May 6, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Thanks for all of the information, I've learning this whole thing quite well. Good damn call on the o2 sensor, the guy who wired the harness I guess messed up, so I spent about an hour fixing it yesterday lol.
Car no longer has any spuddering issues, and only main issue is the high idle and about 5 degrees of spark retard at times. (Maybe that's due to the high idle).

Here's my run after the o2's were fixed, what do you think? I'll try and get some pictures of how my setup is wired. It's a 94 lt1 with 70k, put into a 92 camaro.
http://rfiles.com/files/_camaros/pro-tune-run-4.uni
Old May 7, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

So apparently I may not have an exhaust leak now, just an intake manifold leak or vacuum leak. Car is still running rich though.
Here are pictures of the intake vacuum lines.









Old May 8, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

So I have no idea what the hell is causing this high idle, it's driving me nuts here.

I sprayed brake clean everywhere around the intake to see if it was an intake seal, no change in rpm. I sprayed around the TB, nothing. I sprayed around the IAC/TPS, nothing.
Back and front of intake, nothing....

Capped ALL of the vacuum connections including brake booster, nothing.

Using freescan, I checked the TPS, shows iac position 0, with 0.64v. Once I floor it, it shows position 100. Seems to be good as people say it should be around 0.67v at idle.

TB, make sure all of the bolts were tight, nothing. Took the TB off so I could get to the IAC.

IAC,...freescan shows it stepping down the IAC all the way down to 0, with no effect on engine rpm at all. I took the IAC out, cleaned the passages, sprayed down the iac, wiped it, and put a small layer of rtv around the o-ring and mating surface. Put the iac back on, installed the tb, no effect. Still 1700-1900~rpm.

Map sensor, took it off, cleaned the port/o-ring, rtv again, no effect.

Is there something I'm missing? I just installed new intake gaskets about a month ago, and before the new tune by lt1tuning, the stock tune let it idle to 800 I believe. Maybe it's just the tune?

I'm seriously going nuts here, to top it off one of my fabricated coolant connections didn't hold up while testing today, and car began to overheat due to a leak. O_o
Old May 8, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

DataMaster shows the target idle speed, and its programmed for 800 RPM.

Check the IAC motor per Shoebox's guide:

http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg

There is no feedback to the PCM with regard to whether the IAC is working or not.

Did you check the U-shaped tube for the PCV valve? Did you check the seal for the MAP sensor?

As I already noted, I don't think the 35* of advance at idle is helping things, and may be contributing to the problem. In the first log you posted, it actually drops down to a 900 RPM idle, and its still showing 35* advance.

I would go to the "Computer Diagnostics and Programming" forum, and see if someone there can take a look at your tune. It seems a a bit odd at times, but I do not program, since I don't even use the stock PCM to run my engine.
Old May 9, 2012 | 12:46 AM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

Originally Posted by Injuneer
MAP is then 60+ kPa, indicating a moderately large cam (or another problem). Seems a bit high for the 503, but might be OK. 35-deg of spark advance at idle seems excessive.
You are right. 60+kPa is too high for the CC503 and stock heads(not sure if his heads are stock LT1...). My kPa at idle is 45-50. Timing advance is in the -27 region at idle.

Last edited by ACE1252; May 9, 2012 at 12:53 AM.
Old May 9, 2012 | 05:26 AM
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Re: How to check for exhaust manifold leak?

I'm just guessing the tune has problems, but I'm not into tuning the stock PCM. So someone needs to review his tune.



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