As far as I know the LS1 T56 is not as strong as a Richmond or even an LT1's. Also with a Richmond I can chose the gear ratios to suit the engine and the axle. 1-3,4 racing 4,5-6 cruising/ highway gears.

I hadn't heard anything bad about ACPT CF DS till now. Is there a better drive shaft out there that is more durable and around the same weight and costs less?

I think it is a great idea. You can have the best of both worlds in the same motor. Also on the outside its a LS1 on the inside its an LS6 427. It does make a lot of sense to go with a 383. Its much cheaper and it has been done many of times before.

I don't think I would have to get as crazy with a 427 to achieve the same performance as a 383. Would it be more reliable to go with a larger engine displacement and milder setup?

If I were to want 500 RWH out of a 383 would that be nearing the potential of the 383?

 

Richmond 6-speed is barely if at all stronger than a T56. Look at Taner Bosnali, runs a 9.60 on a basically bone stock T56, just a new output shaft I believe, with almost 700lb/ft of tq, so save your money there.

Sleeves alone for an aluminum block are like $1500 I think, something outrageous like that, that is twice as much as all the machining/assembly of a 383 LT1.

For the price you are going to spend on this motor....lottttttts.....dont just look at the prices of the big things, you have to add everyyyyyything, and everything you forgot, which ends up being twice as much as your first estimate. You can build a killer LT1 396 with a lightweight 4340 crank, some featherweight Oliver rods, nice Mahle or badass pistons like those. A 4bolt splayed block. Some nice AFR 215s a hogans sheetmetal intake. That will put you in the area of 647 FWHP. Just talk to username Jimlab on the board.

DS, forget about the CF shaft, light sure, but you DO NOT want to break one of those without a tunnel shield of some sort, just imagine thousands of Carbon Fiber shards (sharp ones) ripping through the tunnel of your car coming right into the cabin no problem and going through you. Just get a 3.5" alum or steel and forget about the slight HP loss.

 

Oh, and pick up a direct port nitrous system with a dual stage nitrous controller and juice about 300 or 350 and not even break a sweat on that engine.

One other thing, I really just dont like the idea of an aluminum block anyway, just seems like there would be too much flex there or something, I know there isnt really any proof of this, and I know there are highhhh HP LSxs out there, but just dont seem as reliable as a nice iron block.

 

I am not here to bust your bubble or anything. God knows I have my dreams too. Dont forget that little things add up. Things like fuel, ignition, tuning, tires, suspension, exhaust. You never even said anything about the heads or cam. We are not trying to tear you down. Just trying to point you in the right direction. What are your goals?
I dont know of anyone swapping a LS_ in a 93-97. Is there even enough room?

 

Theres plenty of room for an LS in there, **** theres room for a bigblock in there if you know what youre doing, been done, but dont forget that you have to run alllllll new wiring. Which is not as easy as it sounds, even though it doesnt even sound easy, just getting the wires out of there is a pain in the A$$.

 

Too many people putting 800HP through the T56 and pulling 9's and 10's, with brutal launches. There is nothing wrong with the ratios. Why change them? "5-6 cruising" with a Richmond? 5th gear is not O/D in the Richmond 6-speed, and there is no 0.50 6th gear ratio available as there is in the T56.

There is LITTLE HP to be gained. Check the ws6.com driveshaft dyno tests.... huge expense for little gain, and mine broke just driving the car in limp-home mode from the engine shop to the body shop. They will not put shrapnel through the floor as someone mentioned... they just "fray". They are actually less dangerouse than a broken metal DS. Sounds like your goal is to see how much money you can spend, rather than how smart you can spend it. We're impressed

Again, seems like your goal is to spend $$$. If that's your goal, and you have your mind made up, why not just drop the bucks on your engine builder and have a go at it.

Probably an accurate statement. The people who are making 600-650 flywheel HP out of 383's are pushing the limits on "streetability".

If you are serious, just do it. If you are just trying to impress people with your deep pockets, you've achieved your goals. Its really hard to take this seriously.

 

I don't have "deep pockets"....That's why I'm coming here to run all this by you all to see what you all have to say. It's a learning process and we're all still learning here.

The Richmond 6 Speed 6th gear is offered in .52 compared to .50 in a T56 that's not a big enough difference for me to worry about. Also you will be spending a good $5-800 on the upgrades to handle the HP-TQ.

Also I have known people that have broken drive shafts. Planting your drive shaft in the ground isn't my idea of a good time. Hence CF DS it will shatter not flip my car over if it breaks between the DS safety Loop and the rear end. Also if there is going to be a weak link I would rather it be an $800 dollar part as opposed to a $2,000 dollar part.

Its just not every day someone puts a 427 in a 93-97 Z28

 

The driveshaft statement was a relay of what I thought I remembered reading in a magazine. Is this for sure totally not true, I couldve sworn Ive heard of this happening.

 

Why are you worried about the driveshaft making you do the end over end routine? Carbon, steel, or aluminum, you're going to need a driveshaft loop if you intend to get on the track with something that hot. For the price of one carbon shaft, you can buy two aluminum shafts and get a loop.

 

i dont see the point in buying a WHOLE new engine when you allready have that LT1 block there. Go 383 with some nice forged internals and mabey even spray it or toss a procharger on it. Ive seen an LS1 in a 94 v6 car (was cool) but i think the money is better spend on a big inch LT1 then an LS1 for what your doing You know the LT1 stuff will all just go back into place with no moding anything. The LS1 stuff will require more work then its realy worth imo. And for the DS i also vote for an aluminum DS over the CF one.. again just my .02

 

Oh joy, I love it when I used to make parts list and think its only gonna cost $1500 for heads and cam... yeah f'in right. Heads and cam turns into water pump, gaskets, bolts, I spent around $200 on fasteners on my just finished project, replacing a lot of the 120,000 mile rusted ones, hoses, hose clamps, about $20 in hose clamps. Wiring for various accessories, zip ties, conduit, sensors, valve covers, paint, fluids, parts cleaners, nitrile gloves, towels, I spent $50 in gloves and towels etc. etc. Ended up being around $4000, of course I went the extra mile and made sure the thing was very well done and througouly clean. (what the **** did I just spell?)

Have fun!



Your best bet would be to send your LT1 engine out to be turned into a 396 monster making that 500bhp, and around 450rwhp.

 

You still don't get it, do you.

You will need a complete LS1 "donor" car. The radiator is different. You need one from the LS1 car. The radiator support/structure is different. You need one from an LS1 car. The K-member is different. You need one from an LS1 car. The motor mounts are different. yada yada.... The T56 configuration is different. What do you plan to use for a clutch with the Richmond? Mechanical or hydraulicaly actuated? Pusher (LS1) or pullback (LT1) configuration? Bellhousing? How will you attach the LS1 clutch slave cylinder to the front of the Richmond?

Which Richmond are you talking about? The Richmond R.O.D. 6-speed comes in 3 models for the GM configuration. The 0.52 O/D is only available with the 28-spline input shaft, not with a 10-spline input. From the Richmond info:

And, all that torque capacity (identical to the T56 used in the 94 and newer LT1's) for only $2,899.95 - $3,099.95 depending on gear set. Ever heard of D&D Transmissions? Check out their T56 upgrades.

What are you going to use for a computer? You need complete LS1 PCM, wiring harness and sensors. Can't run an LS1 engine on an LT1 PCM. Might as well pick up the springs from the LS1 to cope with the lighter engine weight. And the brakes to help is stop better.

What are you going to do about the fuel system? The LS1 operates at 58psi (vs. 43.5psi for the LT1) and uses a "dead-ended" pressure regulator, as opposed to the recirculating system used in the LT1. Ooooopps... better transplant the LS1 fuel system.

Flip the car over with a broken DS... have you ever seen it happen? There is already a cross-brace under the DS. Spohn will add a 2nd DS loop at the rear to solve the problem. Less than $50. Mark Williams will build you an aluminum DS that will hold up to 800HP for less the ACPT POS. Or, for real insurance, a Mark Williams 3" chrome moly with billet input yoke. Hell.... a Denny's "nitrous ready" or a Spohn hi perf carbon steel DS isn't going to have any problem with a "427" LS1 - less than 1/2 the price of the ACPT. Did I mention the ACPT I "broke" was the "extra heavy duty 3.8" diameter model"?

 

Just buy an LS1 car and start modding it.

 

 

i think he should change his name from waistin_rubber to waistin_money...