Ok, here's the deal. The car got a little hot the other day(long story) and now it's got a blown headgasket. Sooooo I have another set of heads that I'm porting and polishing that I'm putting on there ASAP. I'm also adding the HOTcam kit. I want to know what you guys think I will run, but most importantly I want to know what YOU run.

Here are my mods(current and future)
Current- K&N cold air kit, 1LE intake elbow, airfoil, meziere waterpump, SLP headers, off road Y pipe, flowmaster force II catback, 1LE driveshaft, Midwest 2800 stall, B&M Transpak, LT4 KM, !TB, !AIR, !EGR

Future(like within days ) - fully ported stock LT1 castings, milled back to factory combustion chamber CC or maybe a little more 2.00x1.56 manley race flo valves, port matched intake manifold, LT4 HOTcam kit.

Ok, so what do you run with a HOTcam. Also I don't want to speculate on what I'll run because I'm afraid that I'll just be disappointed, so you guys speculate for me

John

 

N/A with the Hotcam and ported AFR heads I run consistant 13.1's. On a 125 shot I have run a best of 12.3@108. But I run a 4500 lb boat. You can shave off about.5 seconds off that in a Z car.
HVY SS

 

Ahhh....you have NO throttle body. I bet you car will run a lot better if you put it back on.

I too am in the market for a heads cam kit, that needs to pass emissions. Detonation/ping finally killed my engine. I like most poeple, dont want the hotcam cause everyone says its too small once you have it. However, I need to be able to pass emissions. Ill kind of tag along on this thread in case anybody answeres it. I know this topic has been beat to death...so you might want to try a serach instead of waiting for replys.

The norm for a LT1 fbody hotcam carand exhaust seems to be 13.1-13.3 rang. A few faster, a lot slower..lol.

 

John,

I think you can realistically expect 12.75 or so with the new setup.

You were running 13.5's before if I remember. The TC is going to gain you .2-.3 probably...depends on what tires you are on. I got about .2 out of my Vigilante 2800. So that gets you to 13.2 right there.

It would be good if you could get those heads flowed before you install them, just to know how your port work turned out. Probably looking at a 15-20 cfm increase if you were conservative and didn't hog them out and ruin port velocity. (which is why I have to give you props, I don't have the ***** to do my own portwork, I'd probably just ruin the heads).

Anyway, with that and the hotcam you're probably looking at a 35 hp increase..so you're going to be around 320 rwhp maybe (I think you're around 285 now).

With 320 rwhp I am running 12.90's (8.2 1/8th) consistently on Et streets in 65-75* weather, and ran 12.77 (8.08 1/8th) in 45 degree air. But my smallish cam gave me a great first 1/8th and a slow second 1/8th. The hotcam should help the car stretch its legs in 3rd gear better. Assuming you can get traction I think you can run 12.7s consistently. If you're running on street tires I think 12.8s are going to be more realistic. That's still .7 off though, pretty impressive.

 

3400#'s, LT4 H/I/HOT cam, A4, 3.73s, BBK shorties, 52mm, Yank ST3500, stock PE tables, pulled 320ish RWHP and went 12.3s@108 with 1.7s.

New set up has not be truely tested, I am chasing down small things each day....but gained 2+MPH in the 1/8th...new mods are bowl work on the LT4 heads, 2.02/1.6 valves, good springs, TH350, 3600 stall, LTs/Duals, CSI EWP, should still be at 3400#s.

ET depends on how much the car weighs, my car picked up a ton with less weight and the gearing helped.

Pick the right TC for the automatic or dump the clutch high for the M6.

 

You should have no problems with mid 12's, my old Z that had edelbrock shorty's, 1.6 rr, comp springs, and a very similar cc305 went many consistent 13.1's and a few 12.8's with traction. Oh that was with the stock stall, and 3.23 gears...hehe

 

A lot will depend on traction and track prep. Where John and I race in Bowling Green, KY, the track is not known for great prep. Seems like a lot of guys can cut .15 better 60fts at other track with the same suspension/tire setup. For that reason I tend to be conservative when guesstimating performance in this neck of the woods.

 

This is very true!! Track prep is key. Where I run my best is a track that hooks! Most other tracks suck and 60's are usually off .1+ so keep that in mind. One thing that is probably easier to compare is the MPH, there are alot of factors in that too but you should be able to see the increase in MPH.

Also weather is a big issue. I do not race in the hot weather....

 

Thanks for the help guys. If nothing else the car should be a blast to drive when I get done.

Oh and Chris, I'll be finishing the portwork on the heads tonight, so I'll see if I can get some pictures up.

John

 

See sig for times and mods....

 

I was woundering, i alwayd read all these posts about cams, and poting and what not.. and see all the numbers. Does anyone have time to explain what all the numbers mean? Just trying to pick stuff up.... Thanks.

 

Which numbers are you confused about?? Head flow numbers?? Cam specs??

John

 

I wrote an article on cam timing/specs for my club's newsletter this month. It would probably be a huge help if you're new to modding these cars (or even if you're not new to them).

E-mail me if you want the article and I will send it to you.

 

Before my current setup the best was 11.80 that's with really good track prep and really good DA, that was done at No Problem Raceway. At my home track the best was a 11.96 that's with really good air high 40's and track was hooking good as well.

This was done on stock heads! and the car weighed in at 3530lbs

 

Went to the track for the first ime since the HC install this past weekend. Ran a best of 13.1 @ 108 with street tires, full weight, no torque converter. I figure with mods to the above, I could easily get into the 12's.