Well i guess u will see how well it works by the tenths it takes off of our ET, you are right though it is alot cheaper just to do it yourself, but i dunno

 

Well the other thing you can think about it, converting your engine bay from vacuum, to positive pressure...i saw this New Zealand guy had cut out the bottom of the plastic that sits underneith the filter...and installed a roofing shingle thing (sorry about the crappy explanation, but its very very late) basically making a ram air setup to his filter, he had to cut part of the air dam, so it had good flow....but he claimed good results, matter I fact i think he used to be on this board....

 

AM33, this si what your talking about





http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/ramair/ramair.htm[

 

damn, yeah nice work.....that was the guy i was thinking of...i've also seen a couple variations, such as where they actually stuck the bottom of the filter out the whole an inch or two...might work in desert climates, but anywhere else i would be scared to death if it started raining and I saw a puddle....anyways, its far too late to operate a keyboard...

 

wow-
all this over a cold air intake and a cutout?

some of the reasoning here beyond obserd.
especially the
"Besides, the cutout allows you to dispel more exhaust, however what if you are using 100% efficiency of your stock intake system (which you would be in upper rpms). The stock air intake chokes the LT1 at higher RPMs, so putting a cutout on a car with a stock air intake would not help it much."

more exhuast out = more top end.

anyway, heres my 3 cents worth. take it for what its worth

ignore whatever it says you will gain.They are full of ****. When you see 20hp gain on a stock car, grab your jacket because hell just froze over. look for 7 from either the CAI or cut out.
Both will yeild you gains.


$80 for a cold air intake is a steal.
just get that now and get the cutout later. this isn't brain surgery here.

 

Thanks treyZ28 for your opinoin, but as far as i am concerned we arent arguing just having a good conversation, so you dont need to get offended or sarcastic

 

i got the lingenfelter one for 150 and it looks exactly like the fipk but for alot less money

 

Yes more exhaust out = more top end, but the stock air box only flows so much CFM, and I remember reading here a few years ago that at a certain point the engine demands more CFM than the stock airbox provides.

The stock exhaust isn't utilized to 100% CFM either. So if you go with a cutout, you'll notice a difference. If you go with a CAI, you'll notice a difference. Just one is not fully utilized without the other (you don't need a cutout, a good catback will work here as well).

 

What u just said makes perfect sense to me

 

If more air is goin in then it has to be more effiecent coming out also... if thats what u are sayin i agree

 

cold air.. when you use a plastic cold air housing you cannot expect much gain.. not as much as you could from steel..
When I had my LT1 it had the SLP CAI.. With that mod alone I made more power and had quicker ETs. Now.. its gets hot here in Houston.. At the track with 100 degree temps and 3 bags of ice, I was able to go from a 13.98 to a 13.63 with ice and 45 min..
Since steel will retain the cold temps for a while I placed one bag on the CAI and one on each side of the intake manifold.

Some people will tell you that you will get heat soak from a steel CAI. Not true.. Not even a little bit.. I have driven in 100 degree temps for over 1 hour (was my daily commute) and upon reaching home I felt the hood and the CAI.. both cool to the touch.. why? My best guess is probably that the air that flows over it, cools it..
So, since a CAI has a high volume of air flowing through it, its being cooled to less than the ambiant temperature..

On my LT1 I used the Flowmast Force II catback. Very nice system with 3" pipes and 1 single out.. which is best..
using the same dyno as I had before, my 1995 auto put out 270/297 with SLP CAI, Flowmaster Force II, Mezzerie Electric H2O pump, Borla Y pipe.
Before the exhaust, ypipe and H20 pump, it was making 250rwhp with 270 rwtq.

Free mods, in hindsight are pretty much worthless..
Now I cannot stand to see people say that by doing the !TB Bypass you will gain power.. YOU WILL NOT GAIN ANY POWER. You will be able to realize more of your initial power for a longer period of time at best. Remember that the TB will still get hot from the heat soak since its connected to the engine.

Free ram air.. The way I did mine was to leave the air dam strip that covered it in tact. I felt no need to remove it at all.. The idea is simply to allow the engine to suck more air easier than before..
I think SHOEBOX was the one that stated that at 5000 rpm the engine wants 8 cu ft per sec of air. I dont see any real way by methods mentioned here of "Forcing" air and pressurizing it (real ram air) so the only use of the ram air mod is to make it easier for the engine to do its job of sucking air..

I will say that gears are a damn good mod for quicker ET. CAI. and Tires.. Cause power is nothing without traction.

 

WOW...all of that talk and only the first paragraph remained on topic...how surprising.

 

I am trying to find some proof or dynos on line to see what the difference is between the K&N FIPK or the SLP CAI, they SLP CAI costs 199 from SLP plus shipping, and i found the K&N FIPK for 200 including shipping, so i wanna try and find out which gives you more bang for you buck

 

What about the Moroso CAI? Anyone tried that? I too am looking at doing some of my first mods to my 97 z28 that I just bought. (Technically i havent bought it yet, but i will on tuesday. )
________
Nexium Class Action

 

Yes that's what I'm saying.

If anyone else doesn't get what I'm saying, here are some numbers (which I just made up).

Let's say your Air Box flows a maximum of 600CFM
Let's say your Exhaust flows a maximum of 750CFM

If you open up your exhaust, you're going to hit the brick wall at 600CFM as that's what the intake can only support...however you'll have less restriction so the speed at which you can attain that 600CFM is greater, hence a 'gain' horsepower wise.

Same goes with Intake...