If these lobes you guys are talking about are that radical, there's not way I'd run them. No way I'd even run solid roller. After I do a H/C swap, I would like to keep maintenance down around where it is now. I'd like to think that a 450+hp 350ci motor can be set up this way. A friend of mine did H/C on his LS1 and a few months later was pulling the head of his valve out of the top of his piston. Hoping to avoid those kind of problems. Maybe I'm asking too much. Murphy's law and all . . .

 

On Combination Motorsport's webpage (and others), they have different designations for the camshafts: XE, XH, HL, XR, etc. I know what some of these mean (XE = extreme energy, implying more radical lobes) What do the rest of them stand for?

 

what about the "VTEC" they have good low end and good high end



Sorry, but i had to say it

 

I am trying to hit 400rwhp out of my 95 z28. I did the 383 stroker, LT4 heads, LT4 intake manifold, LT4 hotcam, headers, borla exhaust, 30# injectors, 52mm TB, CAI, and a few more small things. I have heard someone did similar stuff and hit like 385rwhp. I dynoed @ 290 with headers, exhaust, intake, and TB. Anyone have an idea of what I might hit with stroking and LT4 stuff?? Also is it wierd that my car with a thermostat and a TB airfoil put 260rwhp and 307rwtq?? I will let yal know dyno numbers as soon as I get her running again. She is almost there, but I am having some problems right now

 

385 is low for a stroker combo. my buddies 383 did 435rwhp out of a ported set of lt1 heads and lt1 intake. on nitrous it made 620rwhp. what intake and tb do you have? a tb thats too big will hurt performance. if you have stock cam a stock tb will be fine.

 

As these other knowledgeable guys have mentioned... the cam specs in catalogs & online barely scratch the surface regarding what's actually going on.

If you're wanting to try to pass emissions, I think that the right set of components could get up into the 380-400rw range & still be passable. If all else fails, you can always run an emissions only program when you're tested as many others do. I'd find out what other guys are passing in your particular area though, as testing procedures vary.

 

Heads & Cam are installed. This thing idles like a bi*ch. It constantly wants to stall if you don't give it gas. It has trouble starting unless you open upthe throttle a little. Up and down the road it runs like sh*t below about 2500rpm. It is untuned, so I guess that all this is to be expected. Hopefully the PCM I have coming in the mail from www.pcmforless.com will correct some of these issues. Haven't really had a chance to see what kind of power gains I've acrued yet - it was raining this morning when I started it up & I KNOW I'll max out my stock injectors. In addition to that, I'm having some overheating probs - maybe I need to bleed the lines some more. Anyway - I was just pleased as punch that the motor started on the first try!!!

 

Could be a million things... 1st things I would check is to make sure your TB intake boot is on the TB correctly, sounds dumb, but it happens. It should slide right on and fit real nice, if you have to force it at all, then it's not on correctly. Next I'd check the wires, then vacuum lines. Any vacuum line or wire that is not right will def. make it do what it is doing. And hope that you have your cam dowel pin in the Opti correctly (if that other stuff fails, that is possible that is what happened). And yes, you need to bleed the coolant lines so you don't have overheat issues.

 

What setup did you end up getting?

 

Bleed the coolant lines and gave it some more fluid and it's behaving itself a lot better. Temperature gauge sits at about 175. Not too bad. A little warmer than it used to run, but not by much. I've been out driving it a little and the computer seems to be learning itself out. It still wants to die when you slow down to stop, but it's getting better.

I ended up with 195cc AFR LT4 heads (race port job), a 233/239 .569/.577 on a 110lsa. I impatiently awaiting my new computer so I can rev it up and see what it does. Even below 4000rpm, it's a lot punchier than it used to be. It really starts coming to life around 2400rpm. A little low end torque loss, but not too bad.

 

yeah no wonder it idles like sh*t A good tune should help out a LOT.