I've posted this before and have made several searches. Car was running great, turned numbers in sig with a "less than perfect" drag race driver. Anyways the first symptom I noticed was a complete breakdown when I stomped on it. First thing I did was replace the coil and this seemed to cure the problem, but now it's back and worse. Tried a new coil, no change. I have TTS Datamaster, scanned the car no codes, but noticed that injector Duty Cycles were above 90% when approaching WOT. So I got new 30Lb SVO injectors and a tune. Alvin at PCMForLess warned me that he has seen TTS Datamaster report injector duty cycles above 120% and have the car run fine, but I wanted the new injectors anyways, so I thought it was worth a shot. Anyways, Alvin was right, new injectors are in and the problem is still there. The other symptom is that my idle began to become rough and too low, around 500-600 RPM, occasionally causing the car to stall. This symptom seems to get slightly better when the car is fully warmed up, as in it doesn't stall and the idle moves up to around 700 -800, still slightly lower RPM than normal idle for this car 900 to 1000.

I've replaced all of the obvious stuff including, Fuel Filter, FPR, Coil. The wires are Taylor OVC with 1200 degree heat shields, routed correctly. I've checked an re-checked and don't see any light shows at night. The opti was replaced by shop less than 10k miles ago when I had my heads done. The shop, (I find out later), isn't the best as in sloppy work, but I do believe that the opti was changed and that it was a brand new AC Delco that the local dealer replaced on warranty. I do notice that there is a slight oil leak that appears to be at the bottom of the timing cover and oil pan front seal junction. I've never completely understood this arrangement, but is it possible that oil is leaking into the opti sensors causing premature failure?

I'm about ready to do the opti but wanted some expert opinions before spending the money and the time. Is there other things that I can check to be sure it's the optispark? If I do replace the opti I'm thinking I should also pull the timing cover and check out the oil leak situation there. If I do this I'm going to need appropriate gaskets and seals right? Is there a kit that works for this? Can I change the Crank Seal without dropping it, would I need to? I'm unsure what these are and would appreciate any help. I have the 95 style opti, so I guess I'd use those numbers correct?

Don't mean to waste anyone's time and will thoroughly appreciate any help I can get. I'f I'm just trying to avoid doing the OPTI let me know if thats the problem, I'm willing to spend the time, I just hate to do that and still be in the same situation.

Thanks

MODS, Locally P&P Heads, 2.00 Intake/1.56 Exhaust, CC305 Cam with 1.6RR, Isky Springs, Lifters and Hardened PushRods, 30lb Injectors, K&N FIPK, Hooker LT's no Cats, Off-Road Y Pipe, No Pollution stuff left, including EGR, PCMForLess Tuning
Car dynoed 360RWHP and cut numbers in sig in super humid conditions.

 

it def sounds like the opti or something else with spark, but if you've changed everything else then that probably is it. do you have any unburned fuel on anyof your spark plugs or anything?

 

Plugs look normal.

 

BTW I do have TTS .uni files that I can email if anyone has nother better to do than troubleshoot my car probs.