hey guys, I just had my computer mail order tuned because my speedometer was off after doing a t56 swap so I had them do a performance tune while in there.
anyway got it back and when for a test drive and the idle sits around 1500 untill its warmed up and go to restart it and it will go down to about 800. but I have to shut it off and restart it to get the idle down.

any ideas ?
Its trowing a code, i still have to get it read somehow. I have a obd 1 port but its calling for obd2 ??? Im using a snap on scanner and the obd2 will not fit. must be a obd1.5 ?

 

you have an OBD 1 computer and port

 

yeah i know, thats the weird thing...its asking for obd2 though on the scanner. i think the tuner changed it over

 

Are you using a hand scanner? I had a similar problem with my scanner....Then I just bought a cable and got freescan and haven't had any problems......

 

A couple of things...

There is no OBD 1.5. The 94 cars are all OBD 1 as are all 95's even though they have the OBD2 ALDL connector.

These cars scan fine with a regular OBD1 scanner. I use a Snap-ON MT2500 and it works first time, everytime. I have used other ones..they all work.except the one's that simply ground the pins in the connector to flash the code

Most scanners require a separate power source to work..they aren't powered by the port itself.

You can make it work.....check the connector against the pinout on ShoeBox's website.

 

yeah I know its a obd 1...im just saying I think the tuner changed something in the pcm that makes it think its a obd2.
I say this because I try scanning it with our snap on solus pro using the obd1 cartridge and I go through the vin and tells me to plug it the obd2 with k9 cartridge. which obviously I cant because its the the obd1 port.
Ill have to get in-contact with the tuner...Id hate to send out my pcm again cause im using it but maybe that's why i wont idle too.
who knows

 

Okay i did some of my own diagnostics and i measured the voltage signal coming out of the tps sensor and it was showing .87volts... so I adjusted the tb to where it should be and then slotted the tps sensor to get .685volts and it seemed to help a bit, its now at 1100 rpms cold and 700 warm.
stil sets a light when im sitting at a light or something and goes off when I drive off.

 

I'm looking at my Solus Pro right this minute. Memory has the 94 Z I used to own in it. It says, "connect GM-1 OR OBD-II Adaptor with K-9 key.

So either you put the wrong VIN into it or you did not read the message correctly.

Your programmer did NOT convert it to OBDII. Trust me on this. OBDII is so hard to do anything with regard to mods. I don't even think the memory is capable of holding OBDII programming.

Even if your message said to use the OBDII cartridge, disregard it and use the GM-1.

Incidentally, the Solus Pro has a rechargeable battery that allows you to enter all the information into it BEFORE you even plug up the vehicle. So you don't need to run off the BS power connection from the cig lighter while you program the VIN digits into it.

For what it's worth, you can post your vin and I'll try to program it in to see what the response is from my Pro.

 

Why did you assume the TPS was causing the SES light? The PCM accepts any closed throttle TPS voltage in the range of 0.20-0.90V. It sets the "low" code for readings below 0.20V and the "high" code for readings over 4.90V.

It is NORMAL for the PCM to elevate the idle RPM when the engine is cold. For an M6, the stock programming is:

24*F - 1,000 RPM
46*F to 89*F - 900 RPM

Does not use the "hot" idle of 800 RPM until the coolant temp reaches 111*F.

Remember - the stock tach typically reads 100 - 200 RPM higher than actual engine RPM. You have to use a scanner to read the RPM off the PCM to acurately judge the idle speed.

Your programmer had to use an M6 program, but do you know if he altered the table that controls idle speed vs. coolant temp? Have you contacted the programmer and asked for help?

 

yeah I was kinda in a hurry so I prob didnt read it through, Ill have to take a look again tomorrow. thanks !

I wasnt really assuming that the light was the cause of the tps, just didnt know if it would have any connection.
The light prob has something more to do with my swap... its not effecting performance any, might even be something stupid like evap. once I get the scanner straightened out I can find what the pcm is seeing and post my results.
what bothers me is that the idle will stay 1100-1200 rpm even after its warmed up UNTIL I restart it.

 

okay, yes you were right speedy, i got the Obd1 hooked up into it and got some codes out of it. most of them were things I deleted, like the air conditioning and it had a torque converter code which obviously I don't have no more.
Then I lost communication and havent been able to get it back...but it still drives.
looks like I have to send the computer back out

 

Damn you bbk
the whole time, that was the culprit. The mechanism where the throttle cable goes on, I guess wore out on the shaft and it wont shut all the way unless you force it.

 

Make sure you tell him everything thats done so he can program all that out man, not fair to you as your not gonna be able to use your check engine light as a reference for when theres a problem.