LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

High Compression / stock starter

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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 06:45 PM
  #1  
L.A. Z's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
High Compression / stock starter

Should a stock starter be able to start an LT1 with 11.1:1 C/R?

I put my car back together today with the new motor and the starter wont turn the motor very fast. It will rotate the motor, but too slow to get it running. I push started the car and let it run for a bit, so the motor isnt locked or anything. It purrs like a kitten. I shut it off, and the starter wont turn the motor.

Has anyone else had to buy a new high torque starter for their high C/R motor?

96 LT1 M6
Old Mar 4, 2004 | 07:04 PM
  #2  
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CVR Protorque, or the LT4 starter both work excellent. Though I dont think your starter is your problem. That's barely more compression then stock (~10.5:1)
Old Mar 4, 2004 | 07:22 PM
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I wouldnt worry about it that cr is to low for a aftermarket starter to be needed.
Old Mar 4, 2004 | 08:14 PM
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MSD digital 6 can solve that, has a start retard built in. But no, that CR is low enough that its not a prob, once you get to 14 or 15 then worry
Old Mar 4, 2004 | 11:51 PM
  #5  
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Thanks guys. I guess a my starter has just gone bad.
Old Mar 4, 2004 | 11:53 PM
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Go with a LT4 starter if your current one is bad. It cheaper in $, and smaller than the LT1 starter
Old Mar 5, 2004 | 04:40 PM
  #7  
L.A. Z's Avatar
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Got a new stocker today, and same thing. (Would have to order the LT4 starter)

The only weird thing is, after the starter fails in its attempt to start the car, I turn the key and get the 'click" like my battery is dead. I can fidget with the cables and it will turn the motor again, then click again.

I think its a power issue. The only problem with that theory is that its a very simple system. The one big cable runs directly to the battery, and the ground to the starter case, thus the block.

This is the most frustrating thing ever. I just spent a TON of money on this car and its ready to go, minus being able to start without a push.

BTW, the battery is new, and I tested it with a load tester to make sure that it was fine and it is.

Old Mar 5, 2004 | 05:12 PM
  #8  
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I paid like $146 for my CVR Protorque, awesome unit fully adjustable, I didnt have to use the shims, easy install. Just remember to cut the mounting block were it shows you.
Old Mar 5, 2004 | 06:35 PM
  #9  
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Originally posted by L.A. Z
Got a new stocker today, and same thing. (Would have to order the LT4 starter)

The only weird thing is, after the starter fails in its attempt to start the car, I turn the key and get the 'click" like my battery is dead. I can fidget with the cables and it will turn the motor again, then click again.

I think its a power issue. The only problem with that theory is that its a very simple system. The one big cable runs directly to the battery, and the ground to the starter case, thus the block.

This is the most frustrating thing ever. I just spent a TON of money on this car and its ready to go, minus being able to start without a push.

BTW, the battery is new, and I tested it with a load tester to make sure that it was fine and it is.

you need to check all connections on cables if your starter is new and your battery is new and fully charged and you jiggle cables an get a reaction check cables.
Old Mar 6, 2004 | 01:35 AM
  #10  
L.A. Z's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Originally posted by pearlpurple
you need to check all connections on cables if your starter is new and your battery is new and fully charged and you jiggle cables an get a reaction check cables.

Beleive me....checked, rechecked, triple checked.

With only one thing left between me driving my Camaro, Ive spent two days trying to figure this thing out.

Im going to get either the protorque or an LT4, whichever I can get to my house faster.

Thanks for the input guys.
Old Mar 6, 2004 | 07:45 AM
  #11  
Don 97 SS's Avatar
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From: Robinson, IL
I have my oem starter and 11:1 for 6 years and no problems. If/when my oem starter craps out I plan to get an GMPP lightweight starter.
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