LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

hesitation on cam install....also help with cam purchase THANKS

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Old Sep 24, 2003 | 05:48 PM
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Acct 23749's Avatar
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hesitation on cam install....also help with cam purchase THANKS

Just a breif history,
first cam install was a cc306 and some cleaned up heads. car spun bearings with in 10 mins. bearings replaced and spun again with in 400 miles of grandma driving

2nd cam.
sollid roller 244/244 duration, .611/.611 lift and 112lsa
It went 90 miles this time, then oil pressure just disapeer. rods and main bearings replace. after the 400 mile break in period it would not hold pressure at WOT. bearings messed up again


SO
with that being said, i am running a stock short block and some ported heads (flow 274 at .600 intake and 214 at .600 E) and a STOCK cam.
Think i should even attempt a cam install?

Actully my main question is if i was to get a cam how would this run?
cam is a crower 224/228 dur 568/579 lift on a 112LSA.
i kinda like this beacuse the duration is slightly less then a cc305. lift is high witch is good for my heads. only think is lobe seperation. i kinda want to get out of the big cam game. with low duration will the 112 be tammer then say a cc306?
I want EXELENT, near stock drivabilty. just dont wanna wast my $2200 heads with a stock cam

Opinons?
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 07:29 AM
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ttt ??? nobody?
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 07:40 AM
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With the 112 LSA, it's going to lope a bit. If it were a 114 LSA, it would not be so bad.
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:08 AM
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Good grief! You spun your bearings 3 times? Ouch! That had to be VERY frustrating. I'm doing a head/cam install right now, any tips on how not to mess them up?
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:33 AM
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From all that I've heard on this board, make sure you follow the torque/tightening sequence when you bolt the heads back on (or anything bolted to the block for that matter). It seems that if you don't do that correctly then the block can become distorted thereby causing premature wear on the main bearings. This is not my experience, just what I've read on here.

YMMV
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:33 AM
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Originally posted by i387
Good grief! You spun your bearings 3 times? Ouch! That had to be VERY frustrating. I'm doing a head/cam install right now, any tips on how not to mess them up?
the fisrt cam install i ever did, on my own car, i think i can blame it on 70 k miles, not so perfectly clean install and getting on it kinda during the first drive.

from then i did 4 installs on friends cars, was super clean and told them to change oil with in 20 mins and no get on it for about 100 miles.

my last install on my car i was totally clean extremely carefully when putting cam in and assembly of motor, but failure was prolly do to buying a chitty shorblock from a popular board member. the bearings were already shot and heat stressed. the rings were bad and they were huge gouges in the cylinder walls.

just be carefull and take your time
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:42 AM
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So what's the best way to get old gasket and carbon out of the cylinders when you pull the heads? A shop vac?

Also, is a ridge reamer necessary if I'm not pulling the bottom end? There is a pretty good sized ridge at the top of the cylinders (115K miles of buildup).
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:46 AM
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dont touch the cylinder walls with anything really. i used a lil brake cleaner and a shop vac wehn i put my heads on my stock motor after getting rid on that POS other shortblock. i wouldnt worry to much with the carbon on top of the pistons. its been there, it will always be there. and by trying to take some off ur risking messing stuff up


as for getting ridges out on the cylinder walls i dunno. maybe someone else knows
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 03:28 PM
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i am running a stock short block and some ported heads (flow 274 at .600 intake and 214 at .600 E) and a STOCK cam
How does it run now? Just curious.
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 09:36 PM
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Originally posted by Like My Taillights?
How does it run now? Just curious.
with the exception of today, it feels great. i raced my friend with basically the same thing but with stock heads and pulled him by 4 car lengths by 120 mph (started from a roll at 25mph)

with out the ported heads, but stock motor i run 13.0 at 109....i am planning on running it friday at the tract where i hope to go 12.5-12.7 at 110-115

we'll see. car needs some tunning. and i need to figure out how/where to train a full tank of horrible gas i got today.
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 10:50 PM
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Wow, did you have the same builder redo the motor each time??
Sounds almost impossible for that to happen that many times. I wonder if the machine shop "line honed" the cam bores or they just pressed in new bearing each time.

Jeff D.
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 11:27 PM
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Originally posted by i387
So what's the best way to get old gasket and carbon out of the cylinders when you pull the heads? A shop vac?

Also, is a ridge reamer necessary if I'm not pulling the bottom end? There is a pretty good sized ridge at the top of the cylinders (115K miles of buildup).
The purpose of a ridge reamer is to allow you to get the pistons out for a rebuild. No need to use one if you are not doing so.
Old Sep 26, 2003 | 07:04 AM
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Originally posted by PoorMan
Wow, did you have the same builder redo the motor each time??
Sounds almost impossible for that to happen that many times. I wonder if the machine shop "line honed" the cam bores or they just pressed in new bearing each time.

Jeff D.
Im talking 3 different engines
1st one original one, got the cc306...bearing replace in it once, after the 2nd spinning, i threw it all away and sold the block bare

2nd i bought an stock engine with like 50 miles on it. used this for a while, and this is whats in my car now.

3rd i bought a stock short block and build my sollid roller. this crapped out on my, replace bearings, crapped out again.

now im used the 2nd motor again...all stock, but i decided to put on my ported heads
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