Closed loop? As ignores the oil sending unit sensor?

There is no knocks or any weird sounds other than the rockers are rattling a bit. Adjusting those real soon...

 

The Results Are In....

Gauge tested as follows:

1,500 RPM = 13 psi
2,000 RPM = 22 psi
2,500 RPM = 26 psi


Haynes Calls for:
1,000 RPM = 6 psi
2,000 RPM = 18 psi
4,000 RPM = 24 psi

Note: gauge did not show below 10psi so I could only post higher readings at higher RPM's.

So that seems like healthy pressure am I right? Then why is my gauge showing so low? Even with a new Oil sending unit?

Oxy

 

Don't let the gauge freak you out. Once it gets into your head you're gonna hear/imagine all kinds of terrible noises and such. If independant known good working gauges say your pressures fine don't go chasing ghosts. I personally don't trust stock gauges...if you want an accurate gauge buy something aftermarket

 

Do an oil change. When you do look at the oil as it drians for a metalic flac look. Also you can cut the filter open and check it to see if there is an abnormal amount of metal in it.

 

The stock lt1 oil pump is a high volume pump and it should not run your pan dry unless your running 7,000 rpm.
I would take it to your mechanic and have him pull the pan and replace the pump with a gm pump and have him check a bearing or 2 and see what condition they are in.
You could do it yourself and pull one of the main caps and take it to your mech. and see what he thinks of it if you are low on cash.lt1's will spin bearings so check it out if you pull the pan.

 

I had the same problem with my old engine. I drove it for 10k miles after the oil pressure became a problem and it still ran. After the engine was hot, oil pressure at idle would be just above the red. I never did figure out what it was for sure. I dont have to worry about it anymore though .

 

I had the EXACT same issue word for word. It was my oil pressure sending unit. They cost 10 - 20 bucks at advance auto parts. Worth the investment. My oil press would go down to the red after 45 minutes of driving then if i hit some stop and go traffic.

after replacing the unit, i drove for 2 hours almost, starting and stopping stop and go traffic. The gauge sat pretty steady compared to what it used to do. Plus, they put thicker oil in there.

 

Please help! I just purchased a 1994 camaro Z28 LT1 6 speed 155,000 Km (Canada) So far the problems I have had are; shaking/ shuddering in low gears, grinds when shifting to 2nd gear from either first or from 3rd to 2nd, low oil preasure, rocker arm tick? I am not sure if anything is related to each other I highly doubt it, I definitely know the transmission is un related to the other problems!

So far I have replaced the opti-spark (bad bearing, caused rotor to hit cap)... I can't believe the car even ran before! Replaced with MSD pro-Bullet, and replaced stock coil with MSD blaster coil (stock ones terminal melted) Night and day difference cars runs alot better! no more shudder!

Problems that I still have; noticeable crackle/tick seems to come from both rocker arm covers, or injectors? Possible oil pressure problem? Hesitation on acceleration, immediate check engine light on, then drive with light acceleration light goes out?

Question 1 what is normal oil pressure with a higher millage engine?

Question 2 how to set the timing with no timing scale (Msd Opti is adjustable)

Question 3 my intake elbow is cracked with that cause the stumble on acceleration?
new one from CRT on order.

My oil pressure is as follows;

cold 55 psi idle at 950rpms

if I get on it a little 60-65 psi

hot idle approx 15 psi (about 3/16 above red mark on gauge) 950rpms

cruise approximately 2000rpm 3rd gear 40-45 psi

hammering down 3rd to 4th around 4000rpms 50psi

Any thoughts? the lifter tick is the same hot or cold gets louder with more rpm, definitely not rod knock! all the lifters sound the same do the LT1s sound like that or, do I have a collapsed lifter or two, or is this caused from low oil pressure? OR is it normal to hear the injectors ticking that loud? I have listened with a long screw driver seams the sound is from either the injectors or the lifters?

Sorry for all the questions, I almost wish I hadn't bought the car!


total parts I have now replaced on the car;

-opti spark

-coil

-serpentine belt

-battery

-cat y pipe

-rear disks/pads

-front lower balljionts

-rear tires

I got the car for really cheap, and I knew that most of this stuff was a problem, save the oil pressure and lifter tick, which is now by biggest concern!

-Jamie