Help!!! Whats the most cost efficient way to have a 10 sec lt1???
#16
With the factory IRS, I've never liked Vettes for an all-out drag car. And, a car that can run consistent 10s would be a drag car. Of course, you can always remove the factory IRS and back-half it with a four-link system and traditional differential (9', Dana or 12-bolt). But more $$$$
WD
WD
#17
With the factory IRS, I've never liked Vettes for an all-out drag car. And, a car that can run consistent 10s would be a drag car. Of course, you can always remove the factory IRS and back-half it with a four-link system and traditional differential (9', Dana or 12-bolt). But more $$$$
WD
WD
#18
No, but if a car can run consistent 10s N/A (not hit and miss with a big shot of N2O), I would say it is a serious drag car! There simply aren't too many 10 second cars that are every-day drivers out there on the street.
So, do you have a "solid" 10 second car (runs 10s every time N/A) that is an every-day driver to counter my point here?
WD
So, do you have a "solid" 10 second car (runs 10s every time N/A) that is an every-day driver to counter my point here?
WD
Last edited by The Engineer; 09-26-2007 at 05:27 PM.
#19
IMO skip all the n2o, build a boosted motor with a short block that can take any abuse you have for it. I personally prefer turbos to superchargers, but in these cars packaging seems easier with a supercharger and a little easier to tune since the boost is actually tied to the engine rpms.
#20
C6 Z06's can hit 10's w/ just some sticky tires in the back and the driver mod
#21
No, but if a car can run consistent 10s N/A (not hit and miss with a big shot of N2O), I would say it is a serious drag car! There simply aren't too many 10 second cars that are every-day drivers out there on the street.
So, do you have a "solid" 10 second car (runs 10s every time N/A) that is an every-day driver to counter my point here?
WD
So, do you have a "solid" 10 second car (runs 10s every time N/A) that is an every-day driver to counter my point here?
WD
#26
That soley depends on the condition of said "headache" and whether or not said "headache" contains any unforseen problems. If you buy something that has been some famous soopercar that has been posted all over the internet with public, well known documented progress then I can see your point. Buying skeeter's junk that has run 10's and "I gotz slips to proovez it.." doesn't fly in my book.
#27
goback and read what i said if you wanna run 10; with an lt1 the cheapest way and still be very driveable...
on another note a stock( BONE STOCK WITH ONLY DRAG RADIALS) c6 z06 with a 150 shot is NOT a racecar and will run 9's...
cheaper than that would be to get a lt1 into the 10's and keep it driveable...id say its doable with 8k buying new parts prolly 6500 if you get deals on your stuff
on another note a stock( BONE STOCK WITH ONLY DRAG RADIALS) c6 z06 with a 150 shot is NOT a racecar and will run 9's...
cheaper than that would be to get a lt1 into the 10's and keep it driveable...id say its doable with 8k buying new parts prolly 6500 if you get deals on your stuff
#28
That soley depends on the condition of said "headache" and whether or not said "headache" contains any unforseen problems. If you buy something that has been some famous soopercar that has been posted all over the internet with public, well known documented progress then I can see your point. Buying skeeter's junk that has run 10's and "I gotz slips to proovez it.." doesn't fly in my book.
sometimes....anyone remember Morgan Motorsports? Mike built a 421 CI LS1-based trans am back in the day (circa 1999-2000) that came from a 'known' shop, was published everywhere, and had the oooh/ahhh factor...it went to SEMA to be part of the GMPP display and John Moss told them to get that leaky piece of crap away from anything with a GM nameplate. The truth came out that the car never ran right, was a coddled mess, and apparently leaked like a sieve. I have no idea who owns the car now - it may have been parted out for all I know. My point is that you just never know what you're getting, and even known shops produce headaches - my Camaro being a perfect example.
#29
goback and read what i said if you wanna run 10; with an lt1 the cheapest way and still be very driveable...
on another note a stock( BONE STOCK WITH ONLY DRAG RADIALS) c6 z06 with a 150 shot is NOT a racecar and will run 9's...
cheaper than that would be to get a lt1 into the 10's and keep it driveable...id say its doable with 8k buying new parts prolly 6500 if you get deals on your stuff
on another note a stock( BONE STOCK WITH ONLY DRAG RADIALS) c6 z06 with a 150 shot is NOT a racecar and will run 9's...
cheaper than that would be to get a lt1 into the 10's and keep it driveable...id say its doable with 8k buying new parts prolly 6500 if you get deals on your stuff
Dollar for dollar for mods, the LS1 C5 is going to be faster. No question about it.