Help w/ torquing aluminum heads
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 137
From: Mt. Airy, N.C.
Help w/ torquing aluminum heads
I'm sticking a set of Pro Topline aluminum heads on my '70 Nova (old style LT1) and need a little help to make sure I don't screw it up. What should I torque the heads to and should I do it in steps to arrive at a certain lb/ft? I'm using new ARP bolts if that matters.
Also, what should I use on the bottom bolts to seal in the water passages? Will pipe sealer like what a plumber would use work? I've heard that's what to use but it never hardens so I don't see how it seals.
Oh yeah, should I just torque them from the inside first and work my way out? I've got a Haynes manual that will probably show the sequence though. Thanks for the help!!
Also, what should I use on the bottom bolts to seal in the water passages? Will pipe sealer like what a plumber would use work? I've heard that's what to use but it never hardens so I don't see how it seals.
Oh yeah, should I just torque them from the inside first and work my way out? I've got a Haynes manual that will probably show the sequence though. Thanks for the help!!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 137
From: Mt. Airy, N.C.
Ok, I got all that figured out(no thanks to Cz28.com
) but now I need to know if anyone knows what spark plugs to use w/ these? My old ones won't reach down into the combustion chamber.
) but now I need to know if anyone knows what spark plugs to use w/ these? My old ones won't reach down into the combustion chamber.
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From: Buffalo, New York
Here I was about to answer all your questions about torquing down the heads and you figgered it out your own self! My advice about the heads is to call the manufacturer for an intial recommendation. Most heads I have purchased came with an instruction sheet listing stuff like that. Yours didn't? Some companies have that info posted on the web, don't know if Pro Topline does however.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 137
From: Mt. Airy, N.C.
Pro Topline's website is junk. All the links take you right back to the main page.
I found some plugs at the parts store that reach into the chamber and are supposed to be the same heat range as the ones I has(2 ranges colder). Ended up torquing the heads to 80lb/ft for the long bolts and 75 for the short bottoms and using the teflon paste. Now I'm concerned about the intake leaking oil. I didn't use the front and back gaskets that go on the block and just put a bunch of silicone instead. But none of it squeezed out so I can't tell if the silicone was thick enough. I sure hope so...
I found some plugs at the parts store that reach into the chamber and are supposed to be the same heat range as the ones I has(2 ranges colder). Ended up torquing the heads to 80lb/ft for the long bolts and 75 for the short bottoms and using the teflon paste. Now I'm concerned about the intake leaking oil. I didn't use the front and back gaskets that go on the block and just put a bunch of silicone instead. But none of it squeezed out so I can't tell if the silicone was thick enough. I sure hope so...
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 914
80 sounds like alot for aluminum heads.
ARPs are supposed to be used with their thread sealant/lube to achieve proper torque readings. I think they recommend 65 ft lbs.
I would use the bolt manufacturers specs over the head manufacturer.
ARPs are supposed to be used with their thread sealant/lube to achieve proper torque readings. I think they recommend 65 ft lbs.
I would use the bolt manufacturers specs over the head manufacturer.
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