help/suggestions for 383 nitrous bottom end.
Ok, here's the deal: I have to rebuild my bottom end. I want to do a 383 stroker. I will be using nitrous in the 150ish range. I want the motor alone to do 450 hp by itself. I will be using a stock 96 lt1 block (2 bolt, I want to upgrade to 4 bolt splayed caps). The motor will have to be a daily driver with regular trips to the dragstrip.
Here is what I have: lt4 intake, lt1 ported heads(stock valves), edelbock headers, lt4 hotcam kit (includes springs and full 1.6 roller rockers), lt4 extreme duty timing set, tuner cat programing.
thank you for your help and suggestions!
Here is what I have: lt4 intake, lt1 ported heads(stock valves), edelbock headers, lt4 hotcam kit (includes springs and full 1.6 roller rockers), lt4 extreme duty timing set, tuner cat programing.
thank you for your help and suggestions!
you want 450 rwhp na with a hot cam? i dont think thats possible. youll need a bigger cam, whats your flow numbers on your heads? for the bottom end, if you want to save some money go with a scat 9000 383 crank, some scat or eagle forged rods, make sure there h beam, forged pistons. LT headers to squeeze the most HP out of it as possible.
good luck.
youll definatly need to upgrade your fuel system as well.
also what are your goals track wise?
good luck.
youll definatly need to upgrade your fuel system as well.
also what are your goals track wise?
Re: help/suggestions for 383 nitrous bottom end.
Originally posted by charles94ta
Ok, here's the deal: I have to rebuild my bottom end. I want to do a 383 stroker. I will be using nitrous in the 150ish range. I want the motor alone to do 450 hp by itself. I will be using a stock 96 lt1 block (2 bolt, I want to upgrade to 4 bolt splayed caps). The motor will have to be a daily driver with regular trips to the dragstrip.
Here is what I have: lt4 intake, lt1 ported heads(stock valves), edelbock headers, lt4 hotcam kit (includes springs and full 1.6 roller rockers), lt4 extreme duty timing set, tuner cat programing.
thank you for your help and suggestions!
Ok, here's the deal: I have to rebuild my bottom end. I want to do a 383 stroker. I will be using nitrous in the 150ish range. I want the motor alone to do 450 hp by itself. I will be using a stock 96 lt1 block (2 bolt, I want to upgrade to 4 bolt splayed caps). The motor will have to be a daily driver with regular trips to the dragstrip.
Here is what I have: lt4 intake, lt1 ported heads(stock valves), edelbock headers, lt4 hotcam kit (includes springs and full 1.6 roller rockers), lt4 extreme duty timing set, tuner cat programing.
thank you for your help and suggestions!
Also confused about the selection of "lt4 intake, lt1 ported heads (stock valves)". First, the LT4 intake won't fit on the LT1 heads without machine work to remove a lip that interferes with the LT1 heads near the valve cover rail. Then there is the general consensus that the LT4 intake is really no different than the LT1 intake, and maybe worse. It does have more meat at the top to allow it to be ported to support healthy ported raised runner LT4 heads, but that's just extra cost to have all that work done to put it on LT1 heads. The LT1 intake supports huge LT1 heads with no work at all. Why limit yourself to the stock valve sizes. No need to go crazy... 2.00 I / 1.56 E is plenty, and even the LT4 heads have bigger valves than the LT1's you plan to port.
What are you thinking of in the way of pistons, rods and crank? Forged?
the heads, cam and intake are already on the car. I must have spun a bearing because there is a knocking sound from the bottom end...
This is why I HAVE to redo the bottom end... I was thinking of going forged all the way. I am in the first stages of planning this short block so I need info...tips and tricks. I need suggestions on what parts to use.
This is why I HAVE to redo the bottom end... I was thinking of going forged all the way. I am in the first stages of planning this short block so I need info...tips and tricks. I need suggestions on what parts to use.
but what are you trying to achieve here? track times? daily driving? road racing? im going the same way you are but i did some research and half the stuff i would have loved to do i didnt need. so lets see what your goals are here besides 383 w/nitrous. you may not need nitrous or a 383.
my goals are: 1-daily driver
2-reliability
3-low 12 to high 11 in 1/4 mile
and:
4-500hp (personal satisfaction)
5-make sure no ricers or mustangs can catch me on the street...haha...
6-surprise expensive performance cars(ie: vipers)
7-seat of the pants feel...
by the way; thank you for helping me with this.
2-reliability
3-low 12 to high 11 in 1/4 mile
and:
4-500hp (personal satisfaction)
5-make sure no ricers or mustangs can catch me on the street...haha...
6-surprise expensive performance cars(ie: vipers)
7-seat of the pants feel...
by the way; thank you for helping me with this.
Originally posted by charles94ta
my goals are: 1-daily driver
2-reliability
3-low 12 to high 11 in 1/4 mile
and:
4-500hp (personal satisfaction)
5-make sure no ricers or mustangs can catch me on the street...haha...
6-surprise expensive performance cars(ie: vipers)
7-seat of the pants feel...
by the way; thank you for helping me with this.
my goals are: 1-daily driver
2-reliability
3-low 12 to high 11 in 1/4 mile
and:
4-500hp (personal satisfaction)
5-make sure no ricers or mustangs can catch me on the street...haha...
6-surprise expensive performance cars(ie: vipers)
7-seat of the pants feel...
by the way; thank you for helping me with this.
scat cast crank, good till 600 hp at 6000 rpm, how often is anyone gonna hit that? unless its a track car.
eagle forged rods h beam , good to 700 hp at 8500 rpm
trw forged pistons ,
my cam is a blower/nitrous cam that will pass emmisions so drivablity wont be an issue
nitrous is a 150-200 shot.
i should be putting down damn near 380-400 rwhp with my ported heads and tuning, add on the 150-200 shot and im at 600 rwhp.
im doing this on a budget, i have a nitrous progressive controller so my bottom end wont feel a hard blast, i found out that i really dont need 4 bolt mains, just studed stock mains, saved some mega cash, also im not going 383, dont need it with that much nitrous and daily driving. saved cash from not having to do clearancing on the block. you wanna hit low 12s to high 11s? its being done on a stock short block. im going forged rods and pistons so i dont ever have to worry about it, the forged rods i dont even need, just doing it. i know you wanna smoke everything in sight, but how much money you want to spend here? if you have a m6 your gonna have to upgrade your clutch to a mcleod, that means youl have to upgrade to a 12 bolt, unless you got money comming out the **** youll be in for a long project. my buddy has a 95, m6, mods are:
SLP coated headers, XE 236/242, Cloyes 9-3145, CSI H20 pump, Spec Stage III clutch, Spec allum flywheel, , Comp R' lifters, AFR Hydra Rev Kit, Comp 7940 pushrods, Crane Gold 1.6 RR, Ported LT1 heads, K&N FIPK, , LTCC, Taylor 8mm wires, Borla race muffler, Holley 58mm TB, Holley AFPR, MSD 38LB injectors.
he smokes everything around here, (when hes not on jack stands)he even took out a viper on the highway.
not sure what he runs but it will be in the 12s when he goes.
its nice to go big and have the biggest combo but unless your going for a 10 second car you dont need half the stuff your looking for.
personally i say forged pistons forged rods, scat crank balancing 150-200 shot of nitrous and your there, keep it a 355 and dont waste the money on 4 bolt mains, you dont need it. spen the money you save on suspension and youll be very happy, you already have the lt4 hot cam, ported heads, and ditch those edlebrock headers and get some slps!
I run in the 11's on the stock motor and a 150 shot. around 11.70 *est. First I would plan on a better rear and clutch I guss you have to rebuild anyways. with a 355 you should hit your goals easy with the N20,You allready should have a low 12 sec car. What are your 60ft times? Good Luck. my goals are 10's on stock short block daily driver
*THREAD HIJACK*
FUNINA thanks for the suggestion of replacing the tail light harness, bought one off a ls1 on ebay for 25 bucks!!! they have birghter bulbs and everything works great!!! hasnt worked for the last three years till now
you may now have your thread back
FUNINA thanks for the suggestion of replacing the tail light harness, bought one off a ls1 on ebay for 25 bucks!!! they have birghter bulbs and everything works great!!! hasnt worked for the last three years till now
you may now have your thread back
Originally posted by 93formula
*THREAD HIJACK*
FUNINA thanks for the suggestion of replacing the tail light harness, bought one off a ls1 on ebay for 25 bucks!!! they have birghter bulbs and everything works great!!! hasnt worked for the last three years till now
you may now have your thread back
*THREAD HIJACK*
FUNINA thanks for the suggestion of replacing the tail light harness, bought one off a ls1 on ebay for 25 bucks!!! they have birghter bulbs and everything works great!!! hasnt worked for the last three years till now
you may now have your thread back
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