SilverTA2813

Well i installed new lpe heads and a cc306 in my car. When i first started it up it wouldnt stay idling so i figured i adjusted the valves wrong. I readjusted them and the car idled great. Drove it around to test it out. The car ran great for maybe 15miles and then started to stumble really bad. I pulled over and i could hear a clicking from my top end. So i once again re-adjusted the valves this time while the car was running. The car is still stumbling after the third time of adjusting. The opti has 10k miles on it. Also i put brand new wires, spark plugs, and coil on it when i did the install. Is it still adjusting of the valves? Can not adjusting them tight enough make the car stumble really bad? I really dont think i bent a pushrod or collapsed a lifter, but what are the symptoms of that? When i adjusted the valves while the car was running i only went 1/4 a turn after i stopped hearing the clicking. Should i have gone 1/2 a turn? I have comp r lifters and i hear u are not supposed to go to much after zero lash or you will collapse them. If anyone can help it i would appreciate it tons.

S.J.S.

Is your PCM tuned for it???

QCKZ28

is there still a ticking in your top end? what spring are you running? how does the car run at WOT? is the only problem your having is stumbling? hows the idle? starting?
answering the questions will help us figure out your problem.

Jesse

SilverTA2813

The idle sounds great. I havent hit it at WOT yet because i was just trying to break it in some first. I have dual coil valve springs with titanium ratainers. Yes my pcm was programed by pcmforless.com. Hope this helps some.

SilverTA2813

Ohh yea and the only problem i have is stumbling. The car is not backfiring any, so i know i didnt tighten the valves to much.

94formulabz

I would back them off to zero lash, tighten the polylock set screw, then turn the polylock + setscrew together 1/8th of a turn to lock them. IMO 1/4 turn is too far.

What RPM?
What throttle position is the stumbling?
Everytime you hit that combination or just sometimes?
How bad? A miss like it just momoentarly cuts out completely or a couple second stutter like your hitting a rev limiter?

I presume no SES light? It would be good if you could log your car, some people could definitly help you more then.

SilverTA2813

Well i went back are re-adjusted all the valves while the car was idling just to make sure that it was not that. I took it out for a drive and after maybe a minute of driving it started stumbling really bad. I am almost positive now that it cannot be the valves, because i adjusted them perfectly. If i give the car a little gas that is normaly when it stumbles. If i give it alot of gas it still does it maybe 50% of the time. Also sometimes off the line it wolnt stumble but it will kick in after a few seconds. Its such a hard stumble that it makes the car stutter and jump like i let of the clutch to much or to less. The stumble last a few seconds in all gears and all rpm. It is so bad that i cant even drive the car hardly. I am starting to think maybe it is the distributor. I have heard of alot of bad story's that the distributor can go out fast. I guess it could also be timing, but that would be constant i would think. I do have an SES light but i also dont have my crank sensor plugged in so i know that is one reason why it is on.

93Z286Speed

you dont have your crank positiong sensor plugged in?

SilverTA2813

Nope, i was told that it was not that big of a deal and it only tells the car when it misfires. Also that i could have it reprogramed out if i wanted. Its a long story but i ended up using a timing cover without a sensor in it. So i just left the sensor unplugged.

93Z286Speed

kinda makes me wonder i dont know much about the CPS but.. im sure someone here does

SilverTA2813

Does this sound like a distrubutor problem? Also does anyone know much about the crank sensor? This couldnt cause a problem like this right?

QCKZ28

no help on the cps, i used a cloyes double roller timing set and had to do away with the CPS, but i converted to OBD1 (no cps). it could be the optispark, you did make sure you had the correct length dowel pin on the cam right? that could have destroyed the optispark after a very short time.....causing your problem.
mine is a 96' i had to cut the dowel pin down on my new cam (xe224/230) to make it match the stock one. it was way to long.
jesse

SilverTA2813

Well i decided that i though it was the opti spark. So i took my old one off and got a replacement one for free since i had a lifetime warranty. Put the new one on, and it wolnt start now. Before with my old opti it would at least idle. Now it starts for about 2 second and then dies. It also sounds really weird for those 2 seconds, like it is reving a little or something. Even if i hold the gas down some it still dies. My opti is the pin type and i am positive that i put it on right. Anyone have any suggestions? Could it be my MAF? I really wanna find the problem to my car any help would be great.

Z95m6

did you shorten the dowel pin before you put the cam in. I would say if it doesn't start after the opti you either got a bad one or you put it one hole off. i put mine on while my motor was out and i ended up having it one hole off. I checked everything because my car wouldn't start it would just sputter, then i finally checked the opti and it was one hole off.

QCKZ28

if i were a betting man, id bet its your opti causing the problem. if the pin was too long, it would probably work for a little while, then the dowel pin would eat through the opti killing it, causing your problem....JIMHO
hope this helps

hey dont feel bad, i installed my cam 2 degrees retarded
without the board, i would have never figured it out.

Jesse