LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Help needed with heater hose routing

Old 03-19-2012, 10:11 PM
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Help needed with heater hose routing

If only there was a shbox for corvettes . This is for my '35 Ford with a '97 LT1. I have a '92 Corvette water pump. I decided on that, I believe, because I was buying a new pump and not planning on having a heater. Well guess what? I am installing a heater now (mostly just for defrost) and this '92 corvette water pump only has one heater hose outlet. At the time I figured with no heater I would have one less hole to plug on the water pump).

I know this is a Camaro site, but before I join a Corvette forum can anyone help explain (diagram like shbox.com for a '92 Corvette would be perfect) how the heater hoses are routed on a '92 Corvette :cough: Shbox?? Your site doesn't get into 92 Corvette pumps...for good reason. I was thinking about drilling and tapping the water pump for the missing outlet, but I would probably screw it up and figure once I know how the hoses are routed on the 92 vettes I should be able to duplicate that.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:06 PM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

I looked up a picture of that pump. I would just drill out and thread the other normal location for the heater hose that the later ones have. Screw in a pipe nipple of whatever angle you need and you're done.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:39 AM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

I know, it sounds simple, but everything is installed and I would probably want to remove the water pump to be sure I don't leave shavings. On top of that I really don't have a good tap and die set that does more than clean up threads. So I figure however the hoses were routed on a 92 Corvette must be good enough for me (even though it was a one year design..). There is enough left to do on this car that I'd hate to start removing anything again especially since the only reason I'm installing a heater in late March is because my rubber heater hose cap on the pump failed and I now don't trust rubber caps as a block off solution. I was thinking maybe the 92 corvettes had a T in the lower radiator hose? #1 in the diagram - would that work?

I wouldn't expect you to necessarily know something corvette specific, but do you know where I can find a 92 Corvette heater hose diagram like you have for Camaros listed on your site?

Thank you!
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:32 AM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

I don't have a Corvette manual. Have you searched online?
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:34 AM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

I did all last night, but I had a hard time finding anything at all that helped. It just makes me that much more thankful for your site all those times it has answered my other questions . I'll check with a couple shop connections and see if I can come up with the diagram that way otherwise I'll just bite the bullet and drill and tap the water pump. I appreciate your responses though.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:32 PM
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92 vette had the other heater hose going to the radiator
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:10 PM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

The Corvette LT1 cooling system is totally different than the F-Body system. It features a self-bleeding tank at the high point of the system. I have a schematic of the Corvette system in the SAE paper that GM issued to brag about all the great new features of the LT1. That included the benefits of the reverse flow cooling system, and the Corvette system to prevent air from becoming a problem. Unfortunately, GM cheaped out on the F-Body cooling system, and deleted the primary features of the Corvette system.

I would find someone that has the Corvette version of Bob/Shoebox's diagrams, if at all possible, so that you can see the differences. In the meantime, I'll see if there is anything I can pull out of the SAE paper that would help you.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:49 PM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

If the cooling system is as different as you describe Fred it might end up being more trouble than its worth. I have two favors out to friends to pull up a diagram for me. I hope to have more information on that tomorrow. If you can post anything from the SAE paper it would be appreciated.

I was thinking about finding scrap cast aluminum to test out my tap and die set...no idea what though. I am hoping the aluminum will thread a lot easier than steel. Would there be a noticeable difference between the two metals? I also considered putting back on my 80k mile Camaro pump, but I know that's asking for it...

Thanks guys
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:55 AM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

I am getting back to this now...

I decided to reuse the 90* fitting on my old water pump because a new one is $17. When I started hitting it with a hammer to get it loose I quickly realized that it is not threaded. it seems like it was just pressed in, but now that I have it out it just slides in and out and doesn't fit snug anymore.

Before I tap my new water pump for a new 90* threaded fitting fitting can anyone explain how they seal from the factory with no threads?
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbirdta
I am getting back to this now...

I decided to reuse the 90* fitting on my old water pump because a new one is $17. When I started hitting it with a hammer to get it loose I quickly realized that it is not threaded. it seems like it was just pressed in, but now that I have it out it just slides in and out and doesn't fit snug anymore.

Before I tap my new water pump for a new 90* threaded fitting fitting can anyone explain how they seal from the factory with no threads?
Interferance fit, the hose barb is larger when new, and is compressed when pressed into the pump....feel free to thread the pump

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:34 AM
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Re: Help needed with heater hose routing

Thanks...I figured it was something like that. It's just amazing how once I get the fitting out it's so loose now it falls right out. So that was just a one time use?

Unfortunately I was hoping to use that fitting, but now since it's not threaded it seems like I "ruined" that pump and still have to buy a fitting and tap the new pump
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