LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

HELP! LT1 - M6 Transmission removal.

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Old Feb 1, 2003 | 01:30 AM
  #16  
Lost's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 389
From: Palmetto FL/Tallahassee FL
For future reference such as when you have to put that sucker back.. You can get to those hard to reach top bolts with about 2 feet of extensions to get the wrench back to that little opening in the tunnel. A swivel also helps. Since your slave is leaking you have to replace it which means that you replace both the slave and the master cylinders. GM made the assmbly as one unit and it works best when kept that way. Don't go with an aftermarket slave Just buy the new assembly from Jason Cromer it comes prebled and prefilled. Make sure you have the clutch fork disengaged (that lever that the slave cylinder attaches to) and support the trans with a jack and gently pull it away from the bell housing. You do need to pull the bell housing too though it's not nearly as difficult. Have the flywheel turned at your local machine shop! It's very important if you want you new clutch to last and perform well. Also, replace the imput shaft bearing - I hear the roller bearing is the way to go. I don't remember what I used on mine... Try tipping the trans forward too to make sure that it's not leaking from the imput shaft seal - mine was and this cost me my new stage III carbon and so I had to go through horror of removing and install the trans twice not much fun. I would also recommend you replace your rear main seal while your in there - I believe I removed mine gently with a flat head and pressed the new one in with a socket or pipe that was roughly the same diameter as the seal and a small hammer.

That about covers it.. just wait till you get to reinstall that sucker boy are you in for some fun!

For what it's worth I got mine all the way together by simply having a few friends push and wiggle.. I didn't use the bolts or the clutch trick.
Old Feb 1, 2003 | 01:54 AM
  #17  
Shawn 97 Z28 M6's Avatar
Texas Moderator (1998-2009)
 
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 1,301
From: DFdubya, Tx.
why not use an aftermarket slave??


I've had one for two years - it's a wagner - and have never had a problem... why spend $100 when it'd only cost $20 to fix?


BTW - my car's not stock either
Old Feb 1, 2003 | 05:18 PM
  #18  
auslandt's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Austin, TX, USA
Smile

Originally posted by Shawn 97 Z28 M6
& auslandt, you don't have to remove the whole slave assembly, inc master cylinder.. you can actually just remove the slave itself.. Just poke out the roll pin that attaches it to the line. Carpart.com sell it individually for like $20..
Now someone tells me!!

Everywhere I shopped indicated it was a single unit. So In a quest for sanity, I got pissed off and just cut the freeking hydrolic line to get it out. Why not, I was replacing the whole thing anyway. Just got the whole assemply this morning. Will be pursuing the 10O'clock bolt shortly. Gave up last night for sleep.
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