I am trying to replace the clutch on my 97LT1 M6. I havn't removed a transmission before and I am having some problems. I followed all the steps in the haynes manual. I have the engine and transmission jacked. I removed the cross member on the rear of the transmission. The manual now states to lower the transmission and remove it.

However, the transmission won't lower much more than an inch or two. It appears that it is bolted to the Engine. However, the manual doesn't say to undo any bolts.

How do I get the freeking thing off?!

 

LOL, yes the trans is bolted to the bellhousing then the bellhousing to the engine block. When I pulled mine I first pulled all the bolts from bellhousing then removed bellhousing from block. Have fun its very tight trying to pull those bolts from the block.

 

I just noticed your in Austin. Man if you were up here I would come over and help. If you have AIM hit me up. corypimpn

 

there's 6 black 15mm bolts holding the tranny to the bell housing.. also remember to pull out the clutch fork.

 

Somebody please tell this guy how to release the clutch fork, too. You know he is going to have trouble with that, since he has never done this before. I know you have to do it, but I have not done it myself, being an A4 guy.

 

Well first ya gota pull the master cylinder off that pushes the fork, then once you have the tranny loose, just jiggle up down side to side on fork until it falls off the input shaft. You can feel it, I promise. Thats really it. Cory

 

I just did this last night. You can let the tranny sag just enough to get to the top bolts. I used a long (2 foot) extension. Once those are out, you can raise the transmission a bit, remove the rest of the bolts and separate the transmission a little from the bell housing. Pull the clutch fork straight out. Once it comes loose, you can work the transmission rearward until the shaft clears and you can lower it. Just take it easy and you'll figure it out. You'll have to work with the clutch fork a little. It's held in by a spring clip. I actually did it the hard way and worked a wrench in and undid the bolt holding the clip in. You don't have to do it that way and I wouldn't have if I'd known better.

Good luck.

 

Pulling the tranny is the easy part. Putting it back up is the fun part.

 

Pulled the master and slave cylinders. The slave was busted so I have removed the enitre hydrolics already.

I was able to get 6 15mm bolts between the transmission and the bellhousing. 2 high on the side, 4 low and accessable (None from the top, can't reach or see up there.)

I then tried to lower the transmission but nothing seems to be separating. Do I need to hammer it a bit to break a seal or something?

Thanks for the help.

 

There is only six 15mm bolts that hold the transmission to the bell housing. Next step make sure tranny is supported really well (not just hanging off the engine). Make sure clutch fork is pulled out of the throw out bearing (it will not totally come out just move about an inch) all electrical connections are disconnected. On either side of the tranny bell housing seam is a slot for a pry bar or standard screwdriver. Just pry a little on each side it should slide out fairly easily after that (about six inches until the input shaft is out). Also was the shifter removed?

Kris

 

Nope... there are 8 15mm black bolts. 2 are damn near impossible to get to on the top.

Now... Do I need to remove the bell housing to replace the clutch? There is one bolt there that I think the engine will need to be dropped to get to.

 

Sorry, six bolts holds the bell housing to the engine block not to the transmission. I just did it this morning too, so I know how much fun you're having. I installed a McLoed Street Twin with there master cylinder and steel flywheel.

Kris

 

I thought there were eight and yes they are a biatch to get to. I can’t remember if it’s a must to take off the bellhousing but we pulled it. I think there is a lip at the bottom of the bellhousing that gets in the way. Are you going to get the flywheel turned? I recommend it, especially if you see heat spots on it. Also make sure you replace the throw out bearing, mine was nasty looking. Hit me up on IM again. corypimpn

 

I believe so that is how I did it. Mind you I had to do the flywheel too so I didn’t have a chose.

There was a bolt at the 10 o’clock position that I broke free with a wrench and unscrewed the rest of it with my fingers PITA. Extremely tight no room for a wrench to get it started back in either.

Kris

 

take a pry bar and "clearance" yourself some more room un the 10 o'clock bolt.. Everyone has problems w/ that one.


Oh yea.. and it was 8 - oops .. Was on my way out to see FD2 and wasn't thinking. Also I realized I pull my tranny way too often.


& auslandt, you don't have to remove the whole slave assembly, inc master cylinder.. you can actually just remove the slave itself.. Just poke out the roll pin that attaches it to the line. Carpart.com sell it individually for like $20..