LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

HELP! dropped valve partially into motor :(

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Old Mar 29, 2003 | 11:29 AM
  #46  
grendal's Avatar
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Originally posted by DubbyZ28Camaro
THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM RIGHT HERE!!



The firing order on an LT1 is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 unlike a traditional SBC, so you should have been doing the #7 cylinder instead of the #4 cylinder. This is why your first two went smooth.

Make sure that if you pull off the head that you get a new gasket...the head gaskets are only meant to be torqued down one time.

Sorry to spill the bad news. I hope you get everything sorted out.
WHAT???????

I'm going to need some confirmation on this....
Old Mar 29, 2003 | 11:35 AM
  #47  
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Originally posted by DubbyZ28Camaro
THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM RIGHT HERE!!



The firing order on an LT1 is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 unlike a traditional SBC, so you should have been doing the #7 cylinder instead of the #4 cylinder. This is why your first two went smooth.

Make sure that if you pull off the head that you get a new gasket...the head gaskets are only meant to be torqued down one time.

Sorry to spill the bad news. I hope you get everything sorted out.
You need to lay down the crack pipe and quit giving false information on this board.
Old Mar 29, 2003 | 11:36 AM
  #48  
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http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...1+firing+order

This thread says that the firing order is

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

and thats from gm so I would think that its correct.
Old Mar 29, 2003 | 11:51 AM
  #49  
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http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...1+firing+order

Look at OldSStroker's post.

Dubbyz28camaro gave the LS1 firing order.
Old Mar 29, 2003 | 12:15 PM
  #50  
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!


Sorry...sorry...sorry....wrong page in my Haynes manual.............


SORRY



And just so you know, I would never give out false info on here on purpose...it was just a stupid idiotic mistake that shouldn't have happened had I been half awake. I like to see peoples problems get solved as much as anyone else likes to have their problems solved, so I apologize for that. I will pay a little more attention next time I am reading from a manual.

Last edited by DubbyZ28Camaro; Mar 29, 2003 at 12:23 PM.
Old Mar 29, 2003 | 02:04 PM
  #51  
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Okay, what I've tried is the following:

-rotated crank up to 45 degrees in either direction.... Absolutely no movement of the valve either up or down.

-stuck a powerful pen magnet on the end -- it does not budge, not even in the slightest. This pen magnet is strong enough to lift my 1/2" wratchet

-stuck some rubber hose in the spark plug hole and sprayed about 120psi into it.... that successfully makes air come out the intake manifold. Valve does not move.

-Tried PUSHING on the valve... it does not move.

Next thing I'm going to have to do is take off the intake manifold and try it from that way, but it seems lke it's going to take some force to get it up if this magnet won't pull it....

Any more advice based on this info?

-Michael
Old Mar 29, 2003 | 03:58 PM
  #52  
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You have to pull the intake manifold anyway as part of the cam swap so you aren't going out of your way. I think once it is off you will be able to get at the valve with some needle nose pliers. You shouldn't have too much trouble once it is off.
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 12:41 PM
  #53  
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Originally posted by Eddie95Z28
You have to pull the intake manifold anyway as part of the cam swap so you aren't going out of your way. I think once it is off you will be able to get at the valve with some needle nose pliers. You shouldn't have too much trouble once it is off.
Well, Eddie's advice is accurate, but I still believe you could rotate the crank carefully with a ratchet on the crank and push the valve back up. 45* may not be far enough to have touched it.
Old Apr 1, 2003 | 12:50 PM
  #54  
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He said he got it in a later post with some help from a friend.
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