I have one basic question, if the cylinder is actually at "Top Dead Center", is it even POSSIBLE for the valve to have fallen beyond reach?.... And if I turn the engine (which I have now like a few times, just slight movements, not big turns, am I risking bending the valve?

Basically, am I f*cked? *sigh*... Now I am wishing I just paid somebody to do this.... does not encourage the do it yourselfer when b.s. like this happens...

-Michael

 

piston at TDC valve will not fall
im not implying anything just asking
you do know that #4 is 2nd cylender on driver side

 

Well, unless I'm stupid (which is quite possible, I feel like a tool tonight), it is the second one back on the passenger side...

i.e. if I'm standing in front of the car, this is the order, right?:

rear of car

8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1

front of car

Is that right? *sigh*

 

Hit the local hobby store and purchase the two part glue that sets in 4-15 seconds. The first three letters of this stuff are Cyn...
Spray brake clean in the valve stem bore and use compressed air to get the valve stem tip as clean and DRY as possible. Spray the Insta-set into the bore (part B) and put one drop on a cleaned pencil eraser. Slide the pencil into the bore and contact the two without testing the adhesion until you intend on lifting the valve. You can add the turning of the crank if you wish, it might help. This glue is incredible....I have accidentally glued my fingers together with it. It is extremely strong and will allow you to give the added pulling power you need to lift the valve. Just make sure the gluing surfaces are clean. oil free and dry. Hope it works for you....I think its worth the try. Do not get any of the glue on the valve bore.

 

passenger driver whatever im tired but your right sorry
but i knew what i was thinking

 

Like a place like Michael's or something like that? Cyn.. something... so it comes with a spray of some sort and a bottle of glue?...

I'm mortally afraid of getting it on the bore and then having to get the heads worked on, *sigh*

-Michael

 

This glue is probably going to have to be purchased at a good hobby store. The glue itself will be about 3 bucks and the setting agent maybe 4 bucks. There is a dissolving solution available but I think its acetone. I really think this is worth your investigation if you are not comfortable with rotating the crank as a solution to raising the valve. At least it will prevent the valve from dropping further into the cylinder. I have used this glue for many fixes over the years. I am a woodshop teacher. It will set in 5-6 seconds completely and is a product of the space age. It was originally developed to hold the tiles on the shuttle. A good hobby store will have it and it might save you some grief.

 

Cyanoacrylate.

Make sure you get the "un-glue" stuff too, if you glue your fingers together they will be melted together and will tear off if you try to force them apart.

Use a Q-Tip, soak one end in cyanoacrylate, then put the soaked end on the valve. Leave it sitting for a minute or so, then simply pull!

 

So, is it an intake or exhaust valve?

If it's an intake valve, the intake manifold will have to come off for the cam swap anyway. When it's off, you will be able to grab the valve with needlenose pliers and pull it back up.

If it's an exhaust valve, you could do the same, but obviously it would require you to take off the exhaust manifold/header.

As someone else mentioned, getting a vacuum on it would probably work.

You can buy a 'suction gun' from the parts store (about $10), that basically looks like part of a grease gun. (just a rubber piston inside a tube). You could slide the hose from the suction gun over the valve guide and most likely pull the valve right back up.

 

Go to a feed store, and buy a $5 cow magnet. They are very powerful little magnets. And will probably pull it up.

 

What is the real use for a "cow magnet"?

and don't say "to attract other cows"

 

Apparently cows swallow a lot of metal. Nails screws etc. So they make them swallow these magnets and it gathers up all the metal out of their system.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'm going to ponder my situation while I'm at work today and figure out which approaches I want to try.

I really appreciate you guys, you rock!

-Michael

 

If all else fails, I think a new head gasket is only about $30. (just don't forget to drain the block first)

 

Ditto . I was not thinking until he posted this. Like he said, you can reach and see the valves when the intake and exhaust manifolds are off. (Just figure out which valve it is if you want to try it this way). I just went out in the garage , and looked into the intake and exhaust ports on my heads( sitting on the floor). The exhaust are closer, and you could probably reach them with your fingers. (but then you would have to take of the exhaust manifold.)

The intake valves are farther down in there , and you would probably need some type of long needle nose pliers ( You will see what i mean if the intake manifold is off). Now that i think about it, a strong long magnet.... The telescope ones, that look like a car antenna may work( I got mine from Hi-lo Oreilly's) i think some other magnet that will reach may work also.