thank you..

How is the fuel pump in these cars?

 

ok, m ight be enough, but dont count on it. youll need a gauge to confirm good pressure at high rpm, esp. on the freeway or racing conditions.

again i dont trust the stock chain at high rpms. id swap it still.

 

I have a fuel pressure gauge, but its only got lik a 6 inch tube on it..

I will find a way to test it, but for now, I can put the engine in and brake it in using the stock pump. when I do my first wot run I will keep on eye on pressure.

I can get a Cloyes 9-4190 for $19.99, or a Cloyes 9-193 for $41.99.. are either of those better?

 

so your planning also on an electric waterpump? you'll need it with a cloyes.

if you go that route, you'll need to modify the timing cover to make it work as well as electric waterpump. gotta seal up the hole where the waterpump driveshaft goes through, and you'll need to clearance the cover for the chain itself. which you'll need some sort of angle grinder/sander to grind down the back side of the cover where the chain is. I just put grease on the chain (while its on the engine ofcourse), then put the cover on the engine. pulled it off and the grease will transfer to the back of the cover where you need to grind down. I made my cover so it didnt touch w/o the gasket in place. that way I know I atleast have that much room.

Id recomend a true double roller cloyes though. I dont remember,. but I think mine was more like $60? just a sbc true double roller. never worry about the timing chain again.

 

I dont want to go electric. I like the water pump just how it is.

but I do want a stronger chain that will fit with no modification.

Any recomendations?


also, I got applied for a loan and it looks like I will get it. So I am going to get this thing built (and pay off some bills).. I was thining about the first option on this page

http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsLT1.html

$1795 + Core* - Complete, Assembled, with camshaft & Ready to Bolt-On.. That would take care of the heads and cam.

and the the Street/Strip Porting to my Intake for $375 (then adding a 58MM throttle body)


OR MAYBE LE2 or 3 top end?

Update:

I just found out "Ai's stuff is done with CNC machines and LE's by hand".. is that true.. if so. I guess I am going to want to stay away form LE?.. It looks like AI offers more hp gain estimate (if its acurate) for less money.
I am very much considering the AI street/strip 185CC package for $1800 (I have the correct casting number 10207043)

 

Well here is where I stand right now. This is what I already have or have ordered.

SLP Cold Air Induction Kit
Aluminum Intake Elbow
58MM Throttle Body
LE Ported Intake Manifold
383 Kit With 12CC dish Pistons (And New Bearings)
LE2 Heads 54CC Chamber (Need To Figure Out Static Compression)
LE2 Billet Cam 236/236 (Need To Figure Out Dynamic Compression)
Pacesetter Headers
Cat Gutted
AEM Wideband O2 (with A-Pillar Gauage Pod)
Flowmaster 80Series CatBack (Also Have SLP Loudmouth Cat Back In The Shed)
Tuner Cable
TumerCat Software
Complete Gasket Set
New APR Flywheel Bolts
New Brass Freeze Plugs
New Cam Bearings
ARP Thread Sealer
ARP Moly Lube
ARP Asebly lube




I need to buy:

Timing Chain (Somehting that wont require modification to timing cover or H20 pump)
Injectord (36+, More than likley 42Lb)
Clutch & Pressure Plate (Will Use Autozone Pressure Plate, Undecided On Clutch Plate)
Fluids (oil, Coolant, Power Sterring, Ect)
LS6 Lifters?

There is somehting I need to do to my valvetrain. I think I will be needing some lifters, I remember someone saying the LT4 lifters are not enough? How are the pushrods?.. Do I need to replace those?. But I can use my 1.6RR from the LT4 kit correct?..

 

Not sure on the LT1. Maybe LS1?

 

My "alldata" program says to dispose of them.. But some people say they are reusable.

Is there somehting I can do, like measure them or somehting to see if they are good to be reused?

 

Safe side, get new ones. Especially for a performance build. I 'm sure I read somewhere the ls1 are a torque to yeild bolt.

 

LS1's are def. torq. to yield. Ive only seen people here say that LT1 head bolts are torque to yield.