so i took the old lt1 formy out last night an notice a BIG problem with it on the way to the local car meet. just noticed this last night, under wot once the car reaches around 4k it starts to buck an backfire really bad. some friends said it was shooting flames out the tail pipes pretty badly. it feels almost like its hitting a rev limiter or something. this is the car in my sig also..

any help would be great, thanks!

 

Any codes? Im betting dtc36

 

nope no cheack engine lights. could it set a code without the check engine light coming on? this just started happening last night..

 

Yes, there are codes that don't turn on the check engine light. To have flames shooting out of the exhaust, its got to be running pig rich on at least a few of the cylinders, or misfiring so badly that raw fuel and air are pouring out.

 

what could be causing that injuneer? wasnt doing this before yesterday, ima go have the dtc scanned on my way to work to see what they say. i actually just got an akm cable for my car, is there a program i can download to use to scan my dtc?

 

anybody??????????

 

c5 formula:
You could try this one ...
http://andywhittaker.com/ECU/FreeSca...0/Default.aspx
If your conversion to OBDI implemeted the data port correctly, this program should work.
Good Luck

 

Or:

http://www.ttspowersystems.com/

 

so i hooked up an obd 1 style scanner to the car an the scanner just comes back that there is an error make sure the key is on an the cable is plugged it??? well my lt1 scanmaster that i have works when its plugged in so why wont this obd1 scanner work? any ideas?

oh an its gotten worse, its starting to do it at a lower rpm now like 3k?? i actually picked up a delteq coil on plug system an put it on with no change an i put a fuel pressure gauge on to check that an fuel pressure stays over 40psi the whole time??? any other ideas?

 

oh an forgot to say its really wierd because the car starts up, idles, an drives fine it just messes up an does all this while under WOT??

 

Since you have an OBD-I conversion, are you sure you have the correct pin in the 12-pin OBD-I scan cable connected to the correct data pin in the 16-pin OBD-II ALDL connector?

And, if you have an LT1 ScanMaster, and it works, why aren't you just pulling the codes with that?

Just curious.. why would you get a Delteq system, when they are basically out of business and not available for replacement parts or tech support?

 

on the correct pin thing im positive im useing the correct pin as ive used the same cable an scanner before when my opti was going out an setting the check engine light(turned out to be a low res or high res problem cant remember which one) an it told me what the codes were an let me erase them as well.

for the scanmaster im not sure how to use it to pull codes as it looks like its just a tool to moniter the sensor readings?? how do i use it to pull codes?

and for the delteq i got a really good price on it an figured id give it a try plus it seems to make the car drive a lil better.

could my o2 sensors or my maf be causing these problems? also what should my fuel pressure be at while im driving the car around town??

 

actually i just checked the scanmaster an wow cant believe i was to dumb to realize it reads dtc lol. anyways im getting dtc #37 and #90?? what are these 2?

 

37 Brake switch stuck "ON"
90 Transmission TCC solenoid circuit

courtesy of http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

 

yeah i just checked on those, pretty sure they couldnt be causing my current problems as of right now. still weird that they are showing up...

well not to sure what else to do about this lil problem...