ZMEFLY

Well at first I was going to go with "Hot Cam" but I was told I can get more power with other cams and remain legal (pass emissions). I want to know from experience or from you experts what is the best cam that will still pass emissions.

Please refrain from the usual comments like, "you can buy a sticker, get a bigger cam". I don't want to have to "buy" a sticker every year, I have been through that.

I have stock heads and I have LT1 Edit to tune the computer. I will probably in the future get a stall, but will run with stock till then.

This is what I have been told:
If you don't pick up the hot cam, I'd personally go for something around 224/230 on a 112 lsa, and run a 3200-3600 RPM converter..

The 305 is a 220/230 on a 114, so it will idle quite a bit smoother and tolerate a smaller converter.

I have been leaning toward the 224/230 112 lsa but here are my questions:
1. Has anyone passed Texas emissions with this cam?

2. How bad will the low-end power be without a converter?

3. Should I choose this over the CC 305?

If you have any other cam suggestions, let me know what and why it is better that these two.

Thank You in Advance Guys!

jkipp84

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the 3, they're all good cams with stock heads. I'm sure you can get all of them to pass emissions, but the 305 is what jumps to the top of the list in my mind. I've seen 350ish rwhp on here from people with it and the hotcam.

FWIW, I ran my 224/230 with the stock converter for a year and low end was fine. The only issue I had was the idle is 850 and creeping at a stop was a little annoying. That's it. A tranny cooler will be a wise investment especially if you stay with the stock converter for a while.

Fastbird93

If you're staying with stock heads for a while, you may want to look at the 218/224 instead of the 224/230. The 218/224 is almost guaranteed to pass emissions, and with stock heads makes great power. Nice fat tq curve, great down low power, and you don't need to rev to the moon. Extremely well matched cam to the stock heads.

97WS6SCharged

You may want to talk to Comp about having the 224/230 ground on a 114 LSA. That would improve low/mid range and should help it to pass emissions. The idle won't be nearly as choppy, but it'll still sound nice.

ZMEFLY

Yeah, I was thinking about that too. Anybody got this cam with 114 lsa in their car?

Thanks for all the replies so far!

I have been reading through some old cam posts and the 305 and 224/230 seem to be some good cams.

Keep the replies coming.

Oh yeah, I have a tranny cooler so that is covered.

bozobuttz

How does the cc305 LT1 cam compare to a stock '02 LS1 cam? Is it more 'powerful' right off the bat?

WS6T3RROR

why not try the 218/224 since you dont wanna get a stall just yet. but my recommendation is to get it ground on a 110lsa and a 110icl that way you'll have an ivc of 39* @ .050 compared to the 224/230 cam on a 112 with 4 degrees advance which would have an ivc of 40. so the performance should still be close, and to me if its your daily driver the milder lobes will help your valvetrain live for a lot more miles. the other thing is even on that 110lsa the 218/224 will have 2 degrees less overlap than the 224/230 on a 112. which would help your emissions concern. and if people can pass with the hotcam you should be able to pass all day with that cam. just my .02

97WS6SCharged

It's kinda hard to compare cams for two entirely different motors. The Gen 3 motor gets most of its lift from its 1.7:1 rocker arm ratio and uses a small lobe lift on the cam. A normal Gen 1 or Gen 2 motor uses a more conventional 1.5 or 1.6 rocker and taller lobes on the cam for its lift. Also, the 15* heads on the LS1 help it breathe alot better than the 23* heads on your LT1 or regular Gen 1 motor. Apples and oranges, ya know?

truedualws6

I searched the hell out of the cams and emmissions topic a while
back. Since I'm in CA it's about as bad as it gets. The bottom line
is somewhere in the area of the GM845, GM Hot, CC305, CC 502,
etc.

The 114 CL seems to do the trick for some. There is also lots
of other stuff that needs to fall into place, but assuming all the
other stuff is OK, the above cams will pass CA emmissions.

I went with the Crane 227 (210/224) because I don't want to have
a lopey idle. I had a Pontiac 400 years ago that had the 068 cam
(211/225), on a 113 CL, and loved it. The only time there was
a slight lope was when the car was cold. I'm hoping that the 227
in an LT1 won't lope, even though there is less cubic inches to
smooth things out.

1racerdude

Crower makes a 224/228@50 on a112 with a lift in the mid 500's that is a real horse.I had one and it idles good and has b******* power across the board.It wes in a 356 with ported heads (260cfm) stock intake,shorty headers.and 30#ers with Ed Wright tune.I had it ground but they put it in their line up after seeing how well it did.
Call and talk to Dave Crower he will fix you up.

Have your flow numbers ready. He will ask for them before he runs the cam program to pick you a cam.

Outrun several 383's with that car,in full dress.

sean1997ws6

Passed Maryland with the cc305 and mods in sig. I am sure that you will pass Texas emmissions with the cc305. nice pull all the way through the power band too.

bozobuttz

Okay, could you guess based on the cam itself all else being equal?

97WS6SCharged

Honestly, if you did full bolt ons to both cars (ie. CAI, headers, cat back) and put the cc305 in the LT1 with a set of 1.6 rockers, they should both dyno around 340-350 hp at the tires.

fdxpilot

Combination Motorsports has a huge number of LT1 cams. For about the same setup, I'm looking at their TN221XE which is 221/227 duration, .542"/.560", 114lsa (with 1.6 rockers). They have the same came on a 112LSA, but I'm going with the 114 for emissions. See this page: LT1/ LT4 Custom cams

They frequently run GPs on cam and install kit. See this thread:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=233285

97WS6SCharged

Yeah, the only bad thing about their cam GPs is the spring retainers you get. They don't fit the springs perfectly, so they tend to shed a little metal for the first 100 miles or so. No biggie, just change the oil and it's all good. Still a great price for what you get.