LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Help before I go buy a Honda!!!!

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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:39 PM
  #1  
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Help before I go buy a Honda!!!!

Ok, I have a problem that even mechanics are scratching their heads about (at least the two that I was referred to). One mechanic installed a new GM distributor, Water pump, plugs, wires, timing cover gasket, pan gasket(still leaking ) and power steering pump. The problem is that when they first got it cranked it idled too low(500rpm), then after I drove it to the store(and by the way the top radiator hose blew off) it idled too high(1200rpm). So after a day of sitting I get in it and it is still idling at about 1200rpm, today I was going out for a drive and after I let it run for about 5 minutes to warm up it started to sound like it was missing. I am completely frustrated and have no clue what's up or who to take it to. I have already spent too much money and I am just wondering if anyone else has possibly had the same problem after installing the new GM distributor, plugs and wires. Any helpful hints are greatly appreciated. (93 z28 M6)
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Reads like shotty work to me. If the pan gasket is still leaking I'd question whether or not they actually did that work since it's quite an undertaking or if they damaged the gasket during the process.
The miss could be from a plug wire that isn't connected all the way or has burned. Quite common for some who don't know or don't care how to route plug wires correctly in these motors to burn one.
The coolant hose blew off? Have you checked the level of coolant and to make sure all hose are routed in their correct locations?
Check to make sure all vacuum and sensors are plugged in as well.
Either they're scratching their heads because they don't know any better or just don't care.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 10:17 PM
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What was the original problem?
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Sounds like your mechanic took the "I couldn't find anywhere to put the kitchen sink" approach.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 04:49 AM
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sound like you need to find a new mechanic...

changed the pan gasket... it still leaks

put on new water pump... left clamp loose and hose blew off

changed opti, plugs and wires... now I have a miss

See a pattern here?

I would take it back and have him do it again. I you paid for a pan gasket because it was leaking and it still leaks I wouldnt pay him. Stop payment on the check or dispute the bill with CC company if mechanic refuses!!

If now its suddenly not leaking from the pan it was misdiagnosed and you still shouldnt pay fot it.

I bet he routed a plug wire too close to the exhaust and now its burnt... shotty work again and I would make him do it again.

Plugs and wires on an LT1 must be done with care and compassion or you will end up doing it again.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:50 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by shoebox
What was the original problem?
I'm with shoe on this one

Sounds like a wire is crossed. But what was the original problem...
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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the original problem was a miss and running hot at a stoplight. I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis and they said the water pump was leaking on the distributor (I have read quite a few posts about this so I'm aware that it's a common problem). But now all this other stuff happened and I looked at the wires today and of course they aren't routed correctly. I should know more a little later on about the car from another mechanic. Needless to say the other two dudes aren't getting my buisness again. The core of the problem is SHOTTY WORK .
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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Doesn't sound like much is wrong with your car other then the basic maintenace and wear&tear items, but poor mechanical repairs that followed. I wouldn't let it sway you to sell the car, get it fixed right and I'm sure you'll be happy with the end result.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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the original problem was a miss and running hot at a stoplight. I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis and they said the water pump was leaking on the distributor (I have read quite a few posts about this so I'm aware that it's a common problem). But now all this other stuff happened and I looked at the wires today and of course they aren't routed correctly. I should know more a little later on about the car from another mechanic. Needless to say the other two dudes aren't getting my buisness again. The core of the problem is SHOTTY WORK .
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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did you chNGE YOUR OPTI. my frineds car sounded like the one your explaining. he changed his starter, battery, alternator and opti. the opti fixed it. see what happened was the water pump leaks down into the opti and makes it act squirrley. im not saying this is the problem but i would def have it checked out.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 06lingenfelter
did you chNGE YOUR OPTI. my frineds car sounded like the one your explaining. he changed his starter, battery, alternator and opti. the opti fixed it. see what happened was the water pump leaks down into the opti and makes it act squirrley. im not saying this is the problem but i would def have it checked out.
It looks like he has that covered. He mentioned in one of the posts that the water pump was leaking on the opti and he had the water pump, opti, plugs, and wires replaced.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Time to start wrenching on your own car.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 03:03 PM
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Since the tachs are off 2-300 high, 1200 translates to around 900 which is ok for M6. If rad hose blew off it probably wasn't secured and perhaps took a leak on your supposedly new opti (if that's the case you might have better luck if it dries out----if it is shot you have problems.)

If there is anything I have learned, its the little things that mechanics omit or purposely fail to do that evidences the quality of workmanship you can expect. And when the little things show up, you can only hope that the big things got more attention. Bottom line is that you rarely can see the big things that they did because they are usually internal. However when you find the small things, like screws missing, loose nuts or hoses, parts not secured, such as air dams, etc. get ready for some bad mojo down the road.

Best advice is to take it to someone who is well experienced and reputable to tell you what is wrong. And if you believe you can get some satisfaction out of mechanics who screw you over, get that notion out of your head.JMHO
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by BUBBA
Since the tachs are off 2-300 high, 1200 translates to around 900 which is ok for M6.

I don't believe the tachs are inaccurate at low/idle rpm. Besides I'd think he would realize if his car was idling too high from listening to it every day.
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