yea i know prob a stupid question put im trying to put my new thermostate in the car and do the tb bypass while im at it..

How the freak do you get the elbow off. I have unscrewed it from the throttle body and the MAF sensor. But its still stuck from tube that is connected to the opening below it.. that goes down

 

ok found out it was clamped underneatht he bottom of the car after the air dam.


But my question is where that small elbow sticks out is there ssopose to be a hollow tub that runs all the way down past the air dam and then clams down there with NO opening in the hollow peice that leads down??

Other pics i have seen of what it looks like from underneath the car show no suck tube thing there?? just an open whole?

 

That's the scilencer. It leads no where. The pics you saw without it are the 1LE elbows. It's closed.

 

You must be talking about the donkeydick, it's an "air silencer"

 

o so it that not needed? also when i bleed my scews for no coolent comes out al tho i did have pressure.. so when i pulled the stat coolent went out. stupid me

 

is the air silencer not needed right..

Also is the 3/4 vaccuum caps needed? fo the tb bypass


Any suggestions on the tb bypass? of the pass side?

My clamp for that side is like set in a grove that it has made from pressing against the tube.

 

The silencer is not needed but you can't remove it without plugging up the big hole it will leave in the bottom of your intake elbow (not easy to do). Some guys buy the 1LE intake elbow that didn't come equipped with the silencer, therefore no hole in the bottom. Other guys buy the Vortech metal intake elbow as they like the way it looks and also doesn't have a silencer.

 

I just did the TB bypass.

You need the Vacum caps to plug up the exposed outlets on the TB bypass unless you want some debris to get into the Coolant tubes.

The Air silencer isn't needed however is is annoyingly connected to the Elbow. Unless you have a good way to plug in the hole that it leaves after it's removed your stuck. Look for a Vortech Elbow in the future...otherwise leave it alone.

For the Passenger side I removed the altinator brackets to get down to a better angle to pull out the tube. "BTW" Altinator was already removed for another installation beingdone. I used needle noses and caught one of the longer tabs on the hose fasteners. I moved it into a position where I could grap it easier with some vice grips. Just pulled the fastener down the tube to where it wouldn't create pressure on the TB to hold the hose into place. Got a flat head screw driver and stuck it beween the hose lip and the TB and pulled on the hose as I wiggled it loose with the Screw driver. Another cool technique is to just keep pinch the hose till it pops off..just depends on how loose your hose is.

 

haha well thnx i gave up and ill do it another day cuz i have school tomorrow and all

Ill try that tho. I got the clamp off but the holes were stuck on there good.



Also after i replace the coolent and start the car and give it some gas or w/e I can then turn it off and bleed the screws right? cuz i did that and nothing at all comes out of the screws?

 

If I remember correctly your car should be running when you bleed the coolant screws..that way it will be pressurized to release the air out the system till you get liquid if I recall.

 

ok drove the car around the block once or twice and the temp only got past the 2nd mark(180 of im correct) just a tad bit. I then turned the car off and bleeded the screws and got nothing but a smooth flowing string of coolent, so that is good.


Anyways thanks for all you guy help!

 

To plug the hole left from the removed silencer, use the lid to a pert plus shampoo bottle. You do NOT need caps for the tb inlet and outlet, they lead nowhere. And the car should be running to bleed the coolant system. Check it again running (to burp any air pockets from the system). Hope this helps Prorac1

 

There is no need to plug the coolant passage. It is simply a tube that runs through the bottom of the TB to heat it so it can't freeze up in cold climates. Leaving them open wont hurt it in any way. Also for bleading the systme...you probably wont have much air in it considering all you did was a thermo swap, but you want the car to be running. Open one of the screws until get no more air bubbles and a constant flow of coolant. Then open the other and do the same. When both are just coolant coming out with no air close them both and your done.

Aaron