Looked at #2 - stalled out while coasting down. You ran it up to 70 MPH, then let it coast down with closed throttle and the engine died at 16 MPH/closed throttle.. Then stalled again after fully stopping.

Looked at #3/4 - same file as #2, except after it stalled out the second time you let it sit for 2.6 minutes, restarted it, idled for 1.3 minutes with no problems, no stall.

Is the above correct?

I still haven't had time to look at #5.... "return run". Did anything significant happen on that return run - stalls, running poorly?

 

hope this works thank you doug

 

Message from above linked text:

Definitely didn't remove the emissions or the transmission. Who knows what else may have been altered. It's hard enough to diagnose problems when the PCM revisions are known. Makes it even harder to determine the problem.

Do you get the same results - running poorly and stalling - with BOTH PCM's?

Is your "friend's" PCM known to be stock?

Every file indicates "RESET OCCURRED THIS RUN". That means the "PCM BAT" fuse power was interrupted, or you disconnected the battery.

Is it possible the harness has the "PCM BAT" fuse is connected to a "live with key on" circuit? Shouldn't be. Should be connected directly to battery.

The problem is that I am seeing the PCM pulling out a lot of fuel, in increasing amounts, as the vehicle is driven. That means the PCM may be supplying too much fuel, and the PCM is using the long term fuel corrections to reduce the amount of fuel, based on the O2 sensor feedback. This is the most critical thing the PCM "learns". It stores these corrections, so every time you start the engine, it is being fueled correctly. When the PCM is "reset", these corrections are lost, and you are running with excessive fuel until the PCM enters closed loop, where it starts to reestablish the corrections based on O2 sensor feedback. This takes time. There are 18 different "cells" based on engine RPM and engine load (MAP),

Unfortunately, this cuts both ways. If it is a "true" rich condition being corrected, the A/F ratio improves the longer you drive the vehicle WITHOUT RESET. If this is a "false" rich condition, based on a problem like faulty O2 sensors, wiring problems, etc., the engine A/F ratio is going to get screwed up the longer you drive without a reset.

Are you saying the stock 95 under hood fuse/relay box has not been used? The 95 box contains a complex set of three relays. The stock harness uses only two wires to control the fans. The PCM uses one wire to turn them both on at LOW speed when coolant reaches 226-degF. The second wire is used to run both fans at HIGH speed when the temperature reaches 235-degF. The stock harness uses only two wires to control the fans. On the other hand, 1993 and early 1994's are set up with one wire/one relay for fan #1 and a second wire/relay to turn on fan #2.

How were they "rewired"? They are not running at the correct temperatures.

With the PCM/knock sensor pulling out 15-degrees of advance, it is very likely that you are hearing knock.

What is the octane of the mid-grade fuel? Does Canada post the (research octane + motor octane) / 2 like the USA?


What about my question on file #5:

I still haven't had time to look at #5.... "return run". Did anything significant happen on that return run - stalls, running poorly?

Makes me wonder if the rich condition was washing down the cylinder walls and removing lubrication of the rings.

AT THIS POINT, I THINK YOU NEED TO:

1 - SORT OUT THE ENGINE'S MECHANICAL PROBLEMS

2 - GET THE PCM PROGRAMMED TO INSURE IT IS RETURNED TO STOCK PROGRAMMING, AND THAT THE EMISSIONS AND TRANSMISSION HAVE BEEN DELETED

3 - SORT OUT THE WIRING OF THE FANS

THEN WE CAN START OVER WITH THE DATA LOGS.

 

Thank you very much , i will sort out engine trouble and get pcm done with stock tune and start over . thank you very much doug

 

Hello we're back spent the last months or so rebuilding the engine had the computer reprogram to a stock 1995 LT1 Camaro when I took the engine apart found for Pistons with the ring lands broken so that was all the blow by we got it running again and now it will start when it's cold runs great but when it gets warm it will not start wait 20 minutes and it will start again we have changed every sensor coil whatever you can think of on the motor and still will not start I found that if hold the air intake and sprayed a little ether into it it will start of course I will not let it run on it we go around the block come back Park and it will not start again we did a trip down the highway it's stalled on the turnaround had to sit on the side of the road for 20 minutes before it would start it ran like a piece of **** after that I've got ten miles on the engine I cannot trust it to go down the road again had all the transmission code taken out of the computer as we're running a for r700 transmission it runs great idles like a dream when it's first started the fans reset so they come on actually at 200 degrees which is fine low-speed and 225 a high-speed I think they come on and off with no problem the biggest problem we have is when it gets hot it will not start know what else to do with this engine if you can help me I would sure appreciate it I will attach a file that I have it's the only one I have a data log from my cats. If you can read it I will post it I bought the programmed to check it out it showed the timing Advanced 104° I don't know what next I can do I put another set of injectors in it new plugs wires we are running 52 lb of pressure Max and runs 38 normal getting parts for I live is takes a long time I hope all is well with you Fred thank you Doug

 

Hello can anybody tell me why the injectors shut down after a run when I try to restart the engine. I can prime it with starting fluid it will fire. check with a noid light. and has no fire. wait a while and then it starts back up . sometimes just replace the optic distributor and it was running great. except when I shut down and try to restart it it does not want to restart. any help is appreciated thank you Doug

 

How do you know the injectors “shut down”? Did you check the circuit for each injector with a ‘noid light? I told you in a private message (3/22) that you had DTC 18 for “fuel injector fault(s)”.

Then there was voltage at the PCM dropping to 0.1 volt when it stalled, possibly a wiring problem. You told me you were going to follow through with my comments.

 

Yes Fred I checked each injector with a noid light. and probably had previous of engine running ****ty was a China rebuilt optic spark. changed another distributor we had and the engine runs beautiful now except when it gets hot it will not start and when I checked the injectors there is no power tool give a shot of ether they fire and then all of a sudden the injections start to work it's very very weird I have changed coils all the sensors check the wiring and have not found anything wrong remember this is a Payless wiring harness and and transplanted into the 57 Chevy truck I did a data run today as you subscribed and then when I got back we shut it off and it would not start for some strange reason eventually we got it running again and shut it off and it wouldn't start again it seems instant after it gets warm I have spark I checked it distributor output again I checked the coils all working if you can think of anything I can check more please let me know thank you Doug