is there anywhere besides the dealer to get this hose assembly? (I'm looking at shbox's picture and referring to PN 10261147). I just called my local stealership and that assembly will cost me $151 + tax and take about a week to get here....OUCH!

Thanks....

 

Nope, I ended up buying all the rubber hoses indivudually and reusing my aluminum hoses. Put everything together with hose clamps. Nice thing about that is if a hose ever fails now, I don't have to take the whole thing out. It was also alot easier to get in in pieces. Have fun getting it out, it's a PITFA.

 

Even with shipping from gmpartsdirect it would only be around $106 or you can use Jason from the GM parts contact link on my website.

 

So what exactly is the matter with your hoses? Be specific.

 

well, (looking at shbox's heater hoses jpg)...hose #20 has a hole and both hoses (#15 and #12) that are clamped to the #13 thing are leaking at the connections.

I was thinking to just buy hose and replace "just" the hoses and eliminate the #13 thing, but dunno......any advice? (I remember reading somewhere that the #13 device is needed as a flow reducer to the heater core)

 

Whether the flow reducer is needed is possibly debatable, since there are those that have removed it seemingly without consequence.

 

sounds like your telling me that you would "not" eliminate it. Do you think it would be OK to just buy enough hose and clamps and do it that way instead of buying the entire assembly? I was thinking to cut off the compression fittings and just use clamps (as Red96Lt1 indicated)?

 

Use a dremmel with a saw blade (be careful) slice NO. 20 crosswise just enough to peel off the metal---do not go all the way through or you will cust into the metal pipe. Now replace the hose with either a short piece of hose or use cool flex hose. Since the hose was probably damaged by your headers--if you have them--reroute your new hose behind the upper metal tube to get it further away from the headers and tie them back with zip ties for good measure.

If you don't want to buy any cool flex from summit, I probably have a chunk left over from my project.

Someone may have a better way of getting that metal crimp off, but I just decided to get a dremmel anyway---you can probably rent one if you want to do that.

 

I meant slice No 16 (which is the metal clamp) on the hose #20 (inlet hose).

 

I'm old school...wouldn't a careful cut with a hack saw blade work?

 

I'm not saying that at all. I was pointing out that some have removed the reducer and not had reported issues. Just giving you a choice.

A Dremel with a cut-off wheel works or anything you want to use. Just don't cut through the pipe underneatch. Replacing individual hoses is an accepted practice as they sell the hoses separately. Again, your choice.

 

thanks...who is "they" when you refer to the hoses being sold separately? (napa, autozone, etc?). Also, is there any risk when replacing the compression connections with regular hose clamps? It seems that those connections were put there for a reason, but if regular hose clamps will do, then I'm all for it.

I value your guys opinion and appreciate your help! I'm not looking for debates, but advice on what you've done as you're the experts! I've had a TON of cooling issues in the recent past and have just replaced everything (WP, Radiator, Stat, ALL hoses, rad cap) over the last weekend and when I finished putting everything together THAT's when I found my next leaks...the heater hoses. I'm at my wits end on keeping this baby cool, but keep charging forward.

THANKS!

 

You said you looked at the exploded view of the hoses on my site, right? That's where you got the part number in your first post. The part numbers for the other hoses are there, too. Those are GM parts numbers, if you haven't already figured that out.
As far as replacing individual hoses, I already said my piece on that.

 

I broke mine 4 yrs ago and I "temporarily" put a piece of straight pipe in. It has worked fine ever since but I do still want to put the GM piece back in,which I do have....somewhere

 

You can't use a hack saw----it needs to be cut parallel to the hose, not perpendicular. It is really a matter of scoring the clamp enough to peel it off. JMHO