I was hoping I had another bent valve personally when I pulled the heads. They are both off now though, and there is no scoring on any pistons and no bent valves at least they are all flush w/ the head. I am getting new bigger valvesprings put on (calling comp cams tomorrow to let them recommend some for me since it is their cam) and was wondering what else I should check if it doesn't fire after I put it back together.

It went out while driving in 6th gear going 70-75 at about 2500 rpms sounded like a valve bent, and then it just died. Wouldn't start back up after that. There was a loose roller rocker at the time of the failure, and the springs where only good to .580 and the cam goes to .594 so any suggestions?

new springs will be much better
but it dynoed 319/335 @4800 rpms (started bucking so bad on the dyno they pulled off) so w/ new springs I'm hoping for 340-350?

any help is appreciated.

 

Need some more info. Does the engine turn over but not fire? Do you have spark? Anything you could tell us would help.

 

Ask Comp if they have a spring that is 130 on the seat and300-350 on the nose AFTER break in.Springs loose 15-25psi after break in.They won't tell you that but if you get a spring with a rating of 120# on the seat you could wind up with 100 or less. That's OK for the lawn mower but not a LT-1@6000.Also get some .050 "up" retainers to increase your installed height to 1.800.Get the locks to go with the retainers.This will move you farther away from coilbind with your cam and make spring selection easer.

 

Those 612 springs are gonna be pushing it as well. I'd recommend some comp 977s. Safe to as far as you'd take them, and you can rev to 7k without worry.

 

since the heads are off, I am getting dual coils, sounds like the 977s

No, the car doesn't turn over at all... no sounds at all. I will check for fuel pressure/spark when I put it back together, but the springs I had had to go after seeing my dyno sheet hehe

thanks for the help, what if anything do i need w/ the 977s? new retainers like the other guy was saying?

 

Ask Comp they should know IF you get to talk to a person in the know..Ask them about that part number and others.Find out the whole story before buying anything.That may be the best one,on the other hand there may be something better they would recommend for your set up.Just remember the PSI #,because those number's I know work.

 

If your engine won't even rotate (I assume since you say it won't even make noise) the problem is in the starter/battery circuit, not the fuel pump.

After checking all the connections at the frame, engine ground and battery post, I would look at the clutch switches if the starter doesn't even rotate. Considering that it died and it won't restart, I would look for wiring problems.

I'm confused on your cam specs. I can't find any cam offered with 230/236 and 112LSA from Comp. Is it a custom grind? I even looked for your lift of .594 with a 1.5 RR that is .557 but I couldn't find that either. Please give us the number of the cam.

 

They'll need their own seat and retainer

 

The cam is a 230/236 112 LSA .544/.555 lift
w/ 1.6s the lift is .580/.592
sorry about the misprint at first, miscalculated that a long time ago

I am now looking at
CC 987 Dual Coil valvesprings
CC 978 Dual Coil valvesprings
EX component 618 Dual Coil valvesprings

with any of them a new seat is required... How much does this cost at a machine shop?? anyone know?

I was told those 3 would be good for my lift... anyone have actual numbers instead of what the people trying to sell me had
would be appreciated, or any suggestions?