LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Heads/cam self install, can it be done...

Old Nov 1, 2003 | 09:44 AM
  #16  
trax's Avatar
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 611
From: Chicago 'burbs
Rule #1, if you haven't picked it up from previous posts already:

If you are new to cars, it will take a LOT of time.

When I did my heads and cam swap, it took me a full week just to take the motor apart. The first time you're working on it you'll probably be sweating like crazy worried about losing parts or breaking stuff, taking photo's of ridiculously simple connections because you want to get stuff absolutely right. This is normal for your first time through. Don't be ashamed if it takes "forever".

The second time I did a cam swap on a friend's car I had the motor down to the block in less than 2 hours.

Good luck! Don't be afraid to ask questions!
Old Nov 1, 2003 | 10:51 AM
  #17  
Kreinmc's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 622
From: Mesa, Az
Originally posted by grendal
Yes. Snags as follows (not really in order, just as I am thinking of them):

1) Took 3 different tools to pull the crank hub, and in the process I destroyed the bolt and did some damage to the threads in the crank

2) Had to locate a new crank hub bolt.... 2 hardware stores later, I just gave up and bought it from a Chevy dealer.... Bye bye to 3 hours

3) Took two different auto parts stores to find a fuel line release that actually worked. None of the "rent-a-tool" ones would work. Had to pay $10 for some small pieces of plastic that worked to do it..... multiple trips to Autozone.

4) Had to order fuel injector O-rings when I realized they don't look so hot.

5) I was sent the wrong Opti seal, had to order correct seal. I have a '95. They sent me a '94 seal.

6) Nearly dropped a valve into the motor, because the crank TDC mark was way wrong.... Spent days evaluating what to do to get the valve back up without taking the head off....

7) While adjusting the valves, it took another hour and some cz28.com posts to figure out that "dot to dot" is NOT TDC on an LT1....

8) When installing virtually everything, it became apparent that very few places can actually fit a torque wrench. Decided to tighten with the "PFT" method.

9) Found out I needed to remove the TB in order to get the intake off (can't reach the bolt).... thus, had to order a TB gasket, after giving up on the auto part stores who never could find the right one.

10) Took 2 different valve spring compressors, and many cut-up hands, to change the valve springs... The first spring compressor (from SEARS), fell apart and sucked ***. The second one from O'Reilly was barely half-*** better, and both were very hard to use. More trips to parts/tool stores.

Potential snags that still remain:

1) I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to get the crank hub back on..... what's the proper method?

2) I hope the crank threads aren't destroyed.

3) I need to rig something to block my AIR ports on my headers (not putting AIR pump back on).

4) Have to get radiator/fans back into the car and put water back in the system... I also have to replace a hose or two that had to be destroyed to be removed... (this could also go into the "snags" list above).

5) I've got no way to figure out TDC anymore. Timing cover is back on, and I've done a "test crank" to make sure it's gonna fire up before I cover up all the stuff that makes it fire ... so now, it's not at TDC anymore...

Other than that, I'm pretty close to bringing it back to life. Anyway, if you encounter any snags, you will find that it slows the process down dramatically. For me, I just get pissed off and leave it for another day.

-Michael

I guess that's all I can think of as of now....
LOL . You need to know that you need to rent some tools in order to do a cam install before you start it. You can get most everything at autozone. You do not need to remove the throttle body to get the intake off, although i don't see the point in not taking it off as it is only 4 bolts. You can get this gasket at the dealer. You really need to pull everything apart and then make a list of things you will need to put the car back together. That is when you head to the store. When doing valve springs you can use an air compressor so that you don't have to worry about TDC, of course with headers on the car you can only use it on so many cylinders. The other cylinders I compressed the spring all the way down and had a buddy spin the crank. When the piston hit the valve i knew that the valve no longer had a chance of falling into the motor. You do not pull the hub onto the crank with the bolt, the first time i tried to do that i pulled most all of the threads out of the crank. It really doesn't matter how tight the bolt is in the crank because the hub will be on the crank so hard that there is really no chance of it coming off anyways. I ended up putting a peice of wood on the hub and hammering the hub onto the crank. I am sure you can buy some type of bar that threads all the way into the crank and has a nut that will tighten the hub onto the crank. Do not know where to get this type of technology though :P. Do not worry about TDC man. I never once looked at TDC. As long as you installed the cam and crank gear and 6 oclock and 12 oclock and you have all the springs on the car, your car will run just fine.
Old Nov 1, 2003 | 11:27 AM
  #18  
rpm4lalo's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 725
From: Zip Tie Island
Just take your time. And hope your Honda doesn't break down before you can get the Z28 back together and running.
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