head and cam all the way ! - the sound - the power - the higher Rpms, go Cam !

 

Cant enjoy the H/C without a 12 bolt? I dont have either but launches arent were everyone has their fun go from a roll its plenty fun and less wear on everything, tires, clutch, rear end etc.... as far as banging gears goes I guess thats unavoidable but surely not as harsh as a hard launch, correct me if im wrong, and as long as your not always powershifting, bad for the trans anyways, or always at the track I would go heads and cam. On the other hand if you live for drag racing rather than just street driving H/C seems futile.

 

ever had your d/s checked for straightness/balance? I went through 6 rear ends before catching on and having the d/s checked...sure enough it was out of whack...have 4.10s & slicks on my M6 and have not had a problem yet...

 

well, what are these people doing to their 10-bolts to run 10's on them??? I've got a rear end girdle/support cover and will be installing a solid pinion spacer next weekend with a fresh set of 4.10s. Here's the claim on the spacer from Thunder Racing:

"Ratech also manufacturs solid pinion bearing spacers, or "crush collars." These are excellent for cars that "shock" their rear ends extremely hard during launching, which is common with manual transmissions. The solid pinion spacer will allow your rear end setup to remain constant after repeated hard launches."

With the structural integrity of the housing increased, and therefore reducing flex, and the crush sleeve replaced by a solid spacer, that the only base not covered in a strong 10-bolt would be the axles...am I wrong? Any fast f-bodies out there with both mods and experiences on this type of setup? If there isn't, there will be one soon...

 

look man this should be a hands down decision, i know you cant wait to crank that SOB and hear a fat azz cam just a lopin mated with a fresh set of high flow heads, but the point is OUR STOCK REAREND SUCKS!, and unless you get a good base to build upon then youre sure to run into problems down the road.

 

If you have an M6 you are eventually going to break the stock 10 bolt with the heads and cam. With an A4 it's a little harder to break unless you're wearing slicks. I say wait and try to get both. Either way you slice it you're gonna need a new rear once you start reaching over 350 rwhp, after that it's just playing with fire.

 

Yeah, a honda motor sucks, but you can make those things run high 11's N/A with enough work...My point is, the 10-bolt can be made strong. I didn't say the 12-bolt was a waste of money, but I don't think it's necessary right from the start. Of course, it all depends on your driving habits. I usually don't gun it unless it's going 70+ mph on the freeway or 40-50 mph while cruising down the street. I literally only run it from a dead stop on slicks maybe once a month, maybe twice on rare occasions. I'm a busy man, however, so I don't often get the opportunity to beat the hell out of my Z like I could a few years back... Even then, when I do launch on slicks, I'm feathering the clutch @ 2800 rpm...

BTW, you do realize that the teeth break 9/10 times due to something flexing internally, don't you? If you run a spacer and a rear end girdle, this eliminates most of the flex out of the 10-bolt, and on top of that, you can buy braces that fit on the girdle for even more housing support. Yes, doing this may cost close to a 12-bolt, but some people can't afford to buy things like that outright. The day they offer a financing plan on a 12-bolt is the day I buy one (I plan on buying one, but with my financial situation, it looks to be another year from now... )

 

Have you looked into a solid pinion spacer? It claims to address the hard shock issue that M6's have with the 10-bolt...

 

Yes I had the solid pinion spacer from Thunder Racing (Ratech).

Joe

 

I hate to be an *** questioning your judgment and expertise, as I am on your side with 12-bolts being necessary (I'm simply trying to use mine as crutch until I can afford my own), but did you mic the spacer to ensure it was completely level on both sides? Something as small as that could have thrown your rear out of whack...just wondering...

 

I personally think it's all a matter of driving habits...It's not often that I pound the **** out of my car, and if I do, 8/10 times its from a roll...I'm sure if I dropped it from a dead stop @ 3 or 4K rpm every Friday & Saturday night, the rear end would undoubtedly crap out. Just like some of these people coming on the board complaining about a spun bearing this or thrown rod that. It's a simple fact that some people push their cars too damn hard. I know a guy who had about 80K on his motor and spun a bearing on his 97 LT1, while my 10-year old 93 LT1 w/ 130K on it and it looked like new on the inside when I pulled the heads (with the exception of the carbon build-up). Yeah, you can build a car to be near indestructable, but be ready to pay the price...JMO

Fact is, this guy is gonna listen to what he wants to hear and go that route, whether it was the better choice or not. It's not his fault - it's natural human behavior...

 

No, you just can't read, Joe. I said the 10-bolt CAN last in a fast car...it just depends on how much of a jackass YOU are in it. (Apparently, from your attitude, you're quite experienced in that dept... ). I never said HE would be able to run a 10-bolt with heads & cam...I said he could if he wasn't too stupid in his car. You're the one without common sense, nor can you understand the English language at even an elementary level if you couldn't catch what I was saying.

BTW, you never answered my question. You claimed to have installed that solid spacer and the rear broke with it. Did you have the spacer "mic'ed" (ask a friend if you don't understand that term, but if you've touched a car, I sure hope you do know what a mic is...) to ensure it is level on both sides? That alone would have blown up your rear. If you didn't do the work yourself, tell me you at least took it to a shop that's had experience installing solid spacers, because if you didn't think to mic the spacer, what makes you think they do? It's common sense...

 

I have not been hard on my 10bolt and it is about to take a crap. (best 60' of 2.1)
Fury- I hate to say it but if you are going to drive these cars hard you need a 12bolt. If you stick to the street and dont mind spinning you might be fine with a 10 bolt but with a 4.10 gear and even nittos I would be fearful. The teeth on the 10bolt 4.10 gear are very thin, Billy broke his on the street with Nittos.

Sorry to jump in this kinda late but I just figured I would share since my 10bolt is starting to make funny noises.

 

They may not lie about stuff but they sure as hell dont know as much as some of the other mags out there. And I dont get this about their track not allowing cutouts? WTF kind of track is that?

 

Probably politics...I have relatives in New Jersey...you forget that state has a towable emmisions testor. That crap is crazy! They pull you over and you drive up on it....what a crock of crap! hehe Mucho fines.

Joe