I installed a set of Pacesetter mids on my Z a couple weeks ago. Man I love the sound and performance. But, the outside of the #3 tube is rubbing on the steering shaft. When everything is cold, there's a slight clearance between the tube and the shaft with the rounded side pointing toward the tube. After being warmed up though, it rubs on the round sides, but still clears the flat sides. I wanted to try and adjust the shaft some, but its as far down onto the rack that it will go. I've got an LS1 shaft I want to put in (also eliminates the rag joint), but am not sure it will clear completely either. Is there anything else I can do? I did install new ES mounts when I did the headers. Also, one buddy suggested shimming the motor mounts. Would this be a good idea? Thanks in advance.

 

I had my number one primary rubbing the shaft.

I took the shaft appart, cut it down 5/8" and welded it back together. This made the overall length of the steering shaft shorter.

I also removed the bolts on the steering column at the firewall, longated the holes with a Dremel and shifter it to the passenger side and bought another 1/4".

Steering shaft is now perfectly placed and has never rubbed at all.

Here is the finished product.

 

Thanks for the suggestion wrd, but my problem is actually that the shaft needs to be out a little more, not pulled in like yours did.

 

Try putting in new motor mounts.... usually if you have old mounts they tend to sag and can cause clearance issues with the steering shaft/knuckle and sometimes k-member.

Jeff

 

As I said Jeff, I already replaced the mounts when I did the headers. I upgraded to ES poly mounts. Any other suggestions?

 

Maybe it is the new mounts? I have stock mounts, and mine clears just fine.

Its a 95' btw. Something to think of ... Whats it gonna cost you to switch back to factory mounts?

 

Well, before I did the mounts, the driver's side mid wouldn't even clear the steering shaft. Afterwards, there was at least some clearance when cold. Should I start looking at shimming the motor mount(s)? Is there any other adjustment I can do?

 

I talked with Pacesetter and they suggested loosening the motor mounts and shuffling the motor to the passenger side. Is this possible?

 

Are they coated headers?

If not, before I would do all that work, I would get them red hot with a torch and give it a tiny tap with a ball-pean hammer. Its not going to affect flow at all if your only dimpling it 1/16 of an inch like ya need.

If their coated though, dont do it. Who knows if the coating would peel or something ****ed like that.

 

If pacesetter told me that I would have lashed out at them for making a ****ty fitting product. I mean seriously, should you have to reposition the motor, WTF.

I have been hearing a lot of this with the pacesetters. Personally I would go with jet hots or kooks.

 

Yeah, they're coated. I really, really, really, really don't wanna take a hammer to them

I agree, it shouldn't be this much of a hassle. But, I need a set of 50-state-legal headers...thank you California...People's Republic of.

What about rotating the motor slightly? I remember the passenger side mounting bracket to the motor is slotted. Would that help any?

Also, I read that the steering column itself can be repositioned to an extent. Would this do anything?

I'll try and get some pics tomorrow...if my camera-phone will permit.

 

I had the same problem with Kooks...I was told it was the poly motor mounts makes the motor sit differently than the stock height. The collector flange had already been welded on to them or I would have sent them back..since I couldn't they met the hammer much to my shigrin...

 

Ok, here's some pics. I couldn't get closer without bringing the car into the garage and jacking it up, but you can still see where the problem is.

 

Like you said, try shimming the motor on the driver side with some washers and see if that gives the additional clearance you need. Hope you get this problem straightened out!

Jeff

 

Moving the steering column over involves enlarging the three holes in the flange at the firewall. Remove the column and run a drill bit through the holes. I have done this on several cars. I have gained anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 inch of clearance depending on how much I enlarged the holes.