Header install questions
Header install questions
I just ordered coated SLP headers with Ypipe for my 93 Z28.. Do i need to take the plugs out to install these badboys. Anything else i should know when installing them?all input would be great... any tricks to getting the exhaust manifolds off? or getting the bolts out? anything!
and ppl with SLPs how do you like em? (i went shorties cuz i have emissions)
and ppl with SLPs how do you like em? (i went shorties cuz i have emissions)
You'll want to remove the plugs, they are easy to break. I did AS&M's and I had to remove my steering knuckle, oil filter, and starter. The best advice I could give is to get some PB Blaster and soak your manifold bolts a few days before you do the headers. Do it a few times and the'll come out really easy! I was paranoid that I'd break one off and I was surprized how easy they came out. If you haven't done a tune up now would be a good time to do it since everything is out of your way. Also, make sure that there aren't any wires touching the headers, buy a few tie wraps to get all the spark plug wires out of the way. Many people on here burn wires, and after installing the headers the last thing you'll want to do is crawl under the car again!!! I wish I bought EGR block off plates cause that flex tube was a pain to get on. OH, some emery cloth or sandpaper would be helpful to clean the end of the dipstick tube so it slides in easily. Have lots of patience and be prepared to be cut/ scratched/maimed and sore. Other than that have fun
Well, the SOTP difference is certainly there when they're done.
Tips:
Get a 12 pack of beer. It'll help when you get annoyed. That's #1. Get a o2 sensor remover and a 5/8 spark socket that you can stick a ratcheting wrench onto the end of. I use the Craftsman "Angled" wrenches, simply because that can help get into some tighter corners. Take the 5.8" spark socket and cut down the rubber insert (or replace with a rubber washer, or remove) and cut just over 1" off of it. I would still have another 5/8 spark socket un-touched if you can. This short socket costs like $20 from SLP, and would be worth every penny. I did it with a hacksaw and $2.99
If you have the factory oil cooler (check your oil filter mount for 2 lines that go to the radiator/cooling system) you'll want to change your oil now too, simply because taking the filter off (it is lower with the oil cooler) and removing the bolt that holds the mount on and pushing it out of the way, will save you a few headaches and possibly breaking something.
Soak all the bolts in penetrating oil for a good hour. And I mean soak. Remove the alternator, belt, steering shaft, starter. Pull the y-pipe. Thats going to put a lot of crap into your face. Then your next problem will be getting the plugs out, but it should be pretty easy. While you're there - get new plugs and wires. And get Over the Valve Covers style too, they're pretty and if you want nice 8.5mm wires, well... they dont fit into the stock looms well anyway.
So just work on the bolts one at a time, and DONT jerk the wrench/torque bar. Keep even pressure, because some of the bolts may want to snap. Next relax and clean the surfaces on the heads. Use Fel-Pro gaskets of course.
The driver's and passenger's side headers go in from the bottom. It'll take a lot of fussing to get it just right and get them to go in, but it'll go if you give it time.
It's not very hard, but it IS time consuming. Take breaks and plan to take a solid 2 days to do it for your first time.
Tips:
Get a 12 pack of beer. It'll help when you get annoyed. That's #1. Get a o2 sensor remover and a 5/8 spark socket that you can stick a ratcheting wrench onto the end of. I use the Craftsman "Angled" wrenches, simply because that can help get into some tighter corners. Take the 5.8" spark socket and cut down the rubber insert (or replace with a rubber washer, or remove) and cut just over 1" off of it. I would still have another 5/8 spark socket un-touched if you can. This short socket costs like $20 from SLP, and would be worth every penny. I did it with a hacksaw and $2.99

If you have the factory oil cooler (check your oil filter mount for 2 lines that go to the radiator/cooling system) you'll want to change your oil now too, simply because taking the filter off (it is lower with the oil cooler) and removing the bolt that holds the mount on and pushing it out of the way, will save you a few headaches and possibly breaking something.
Soak all the bolts in penetrating oil for a good hour. And I mean soak. Remove the alternator, belt, steering shaft, starter. Pull the y-pipe. Thats going to put a lot of crap into your face. Then your next problem will be getting the plugs out, but it should be pretty easy. While you're there - get new plugs and wires. And get Over the Valve Covers style too, they're pretty and if you want nice 8.5mm wires, well... they dont fit into the stock looms well anyway.
So just work on the bolts one at a time, and DONT jerk the wrench/torque bar. Keep even pressure, because some of the bolts may want to snap. Next relax and clean the surfaces on the heads. Use Fel-Pro gaskets of course.
The driver's and passenger's side headers go in from the bottom. It'll take a lot of fussing to get it just right and get them to go in, but it'll go if you give it time.
It's not very hard, but it IS time consuming. Take breaks and plan to take a solid 2 days to do it for your first time.
i just put new plugs and wires in a month ago aprox. So they will come out ok. Oil needs to be changed anyway so that will work out good. The front Bolt on the drivers side is broken off. I just noticed it today. Any tips on getting that out? i saw the exhaust leak and realized theres no bolt there.. whoop de do, that should be fun. Thanks for all the advice thus far, Any more would be greatly appreciated.. especally on getting that bolt outta the head
Just take your time and if you get frustrated walk away and cool off, I get mad and start destroying things and just make more problems for myself so now when it is not going my way I walk and come back in a little while and it always seems to work better. I have the tranny out of mine and I just installed Hooker LTs I removed the starter and they went right in. On the drivers side I took off the oil filter and the steering linkage and in the header went. I don,t know about shortys but my LTs required alot of relocation of wires, and I think my evap core plastic covering is going to be toast but the AC is gone anyway so I am not worried. You might be able to drill out that bolt with a dremel and a right angle drive on it.
Just take your time and try to do as much of the relocating and thermo tape stuff BEFORE you put the headers in. Trust me on this one.
Just take your time and try to do as much of the relocating and thermo tape stuff BEFORE you put the headers in. Trust me on this one.
Don't remove stuff you don't have too. 
I never removed my oil filter, dip stick tube, steering linkage, etc. I looked at the car, and knew some stuff was obviously in the way (y-pipe, starter, alternator). But the rest, screw that... I'll see what fits, and if it doesn't.... then I'll yank it off. And yep, I was right.

I never removed my oil filter, dip stick tube, steering linkage, etc. I looked at the car, and knew some stuff was obviously in the way (y-pipe, starter, alternator). But the rest, screw that... I'll see what fits, and if it doesn't.... then I'll yank it off. And yep, I was right.
in the end, I ended up removing the steering linkage, valve cover, and coolant temperature sensor. After that the header on the drivers side dropped in from the top. Passengers side was pretty easy and also dropped in from the top. You can do youself a favor and replace the O2 sensors at the same time, this will save you from having to remove them from the old stuff. Get some PB Blaster and soak the bolts in it (forget about the Y-pipe bolts, your going to break them anyway) don't forget the bolts on the cat.
bolts on the cat shouldnt be bad. the Loudmouth is that old. less then a year. And the walk away thing sounds like me too. I get pissed at something and end up forcing it
hahaha Im going to have the car in the garage on jack stands for about a week, so well see how long it takes. Ill take my time for sure. Im also going to get a 160* Tstat and put that in. and possibly new brakes. and if i have to take the head off to get the damn bolt out, ill do a little porting
hahaha Im going to have the car in the garage on jack stands for about a week, so well see how long it takes. Ill take my time for sure. Im also going to get a 160* Tstat and put that in. and possibly new brakes. and if i have to take the head off to get the damn bolt out, ill do a little porting
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chevroletfreak
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Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM



