I have hooker LT's on my car now. My car is on jack stands right now because of a tranny problem. My Lt's leak where the #1 primary slips on. So i'm gonna take the header off and get it welded together. My question is i know i wont be able to install it after i do that but if i have a bmr k-member the will be a lot more room to work with. Will i be able to slip the headers in after that? Also how should i go about getting them welded together. Because if i pull the header out it will be loose and when they weld it together it may not be lined up correctly.

 

before you pull the header out, take a marker or something and make a line around the primary where it slips into it to keep track of fitment and make sure when it gets welded that the slip doesnt cross over the specific side of the line that it needs to be on.

as far as being able to slip it in afterwards, i am not sure but it probably can be done, might need to undo the steering shaft or drop the k-member to do it tho (maybe)

 

Good idea with the marker. I didn't think of that. I could just put a line on each side of the primary and then just line them up when they are welded and it should work.

Does anybody else know if i will be able to get the headers in once they are welded with the tubular k-member.

 

I have read countless times on here that header install is 10x easier with a tubular k-member.

Mike

 

Unless you've got SLP 1-3/4" headers... My entire engine with k-member and headers is going to an exhaust shop Friday to see if they can't massage the headers around it. I just bought both (knew there might be a fitment issue) and really hope I can use them... <fingers-crossed>

But you're right, there appears to be tons more clearance, so it's got potential.

 

i've done LT headers on both a tubular k-member (mine) and a friends stock k-member car

stock was a PITA
mine was easy as one could want it to be since i did them both at the same time

i think you are going to have some install issues with the welded primary tho
exactly what that problem is going to be, i dont know...
unless you can bend (after its welded) or flex the slip fit primary around the steering linkage maybe. that might be doable

 

i would run a circle around the primary for depth alignment and then run 2 dashes off of that line onto both sides of the primary, to keep them lined up straight

something like this -)- but have 4 dashes, 2 sets of 2, 2 on each side of the depth alignment circle

 

I didn't have any issues with my BMR K-member and my LT Jet-Hot.

 

Im sure you can find someone w/ an SBC head laying around you can you to bolt the header up to..This will ensure the header is in the correct location..Thats how I did mine and it was a PITA to reinstall it..Basically I dropped the Kmember 6inches and raised the motor 5-6inches. I also beat the crap out of the underneath of my car to make it fit between the Kmember and the body. 6hrs of my time and it was in and I had NO leak at all Thats all I cared about really. Next time I will just drop the Kmember all the way..

I believe it will be ALOT easier w/ a BMR kmember tho since its alot smaller. Have fun and g'luck!

Gotta luv the leaky slip-tub!

Cody

 

are there any lt's that don't work with aftermarket k-member's? tpis perhaps?
-b

 

well since i'm gonna do the k-member anyways i'll just wait till i take the stock k-member off and once its off i will put the header back on. Then i will install the bmr k-member after the header is on. That will make things easier. Now i gotta figure out how hard of an install the k-member is gonna be. I already have enough work ahead of me dropping my tranny and trying to figure out what is wrong with that.

 

Sounds like a good plan putting the header in before the k-member.