i am gonna install my headers edelbrock mids (i know lt's are better but i have mids and i am broke so i cant get lt's now) soon and i was wondering are there any tools that will help make the install easier and if u have any tips

 

spray all your bolts with liquid wrench so they are easier to get off

 

Basic wrenches,sockets,and ratchets will do the job. You will also need a floorjack and jackstands. I would suggest buying a couple cans of PB Blaster and really hosing down all of the exhaust manifold bolts and the y-pipe bolts to make for easier disassembly.

 

bandages for your soon-to-be cut arms.

 

Remove the coolant temp sensor from the driver's side of the block.

 

As stated already, do a nice clean up before diving in. Have a box of disposable gloves
because you will go through a lot of them. I remove the alternator and starter for more
room. I have stacked 2" x 8"s for raising the car, they are four high and screwed together.
I jack up the car and put a stack under each tire. This way I don't have jack stands or
a jack in my way under the car.

 

Beer

 

Get some quality header bolts also it would be a good time to do plugs and wires while doing headers.

 

As already mentioned, spray all bolts (manifold, exhaust flanges) with
PB-Blaster. And dont spray them 30 minutes before disassembling;
give it a good overnight (or better, 2 nights) soaking, and spraying
more than once.

Be sure to remove the temperature sensor on the driver's side BEFORE
removing the old manifolds - if you bump the sensor, it can easily break
its connector socket.

If you have high mileage, do yourself a favor and replace the motor
mounts - it will only set you back 1-2 hours. I would recommend
the Prothane urethane mounts.

Replace the spark plugs too, and put the new ones in AFTER you
install the headers (so you dont bump a plug(s) and break it).

If you have the funds, I recommend doing OTVC looms - they help
to keep the wires away from the primaries. Of course, if you primaries
loop UP and over, then stay with the wire on the low side. OTVC looms
usually dictate that you get new wires, which might be a good idea
depending on the mileage/condition of your current wires.

Be prepared to lift the engine up on each side to facilitate ease of
installing the headers. Another good reason to replace the motor
mounts, if you have to remove the through-bolt to raise the engine.

Remove the starter and be careful of the small electrical wiring on the
passenger side (to the engine) - one is fairly thin and is easily broken.

I highly recommend using socket-head [header] bolts, versus
standard hex head or 12-point bolts. I find it's easier to install the
socket-head bolts, to screw them in, and the subsequent re-tightening
you'll be doing after the install.

You will most likely have to remove the oil dipstick tube (I had to).
If you have to, pull is STRAIGHT OUT of the engine - do NOT pull it
out a bit, bend it a bit to clear and come out, etc. And take it out
after you remove the exhaust manifolds. The "straight part" of the
tube that lives in the engine MUST REMAIN perfectly straight or you
will NEVER get it back in. I know, I had to buy a new one ($18usd)
because I had a very slight bend in the straight "in the engine" section.

After installing the headers and everything is tight, run the engine
for about 10 minutes to heat everything up. Turn the engine off and
allow it to cool down. Re-tighten all the header bolts, then take the
car out for a good hour or two spin. Then come back home and allow
it to cool and then re-tighten the header bolts again. Do this again
after about 10 hours of subsequent driving - the bolts should be fine
after this driving/heat/re-tightening cycle. You can recheck them
once a month for piece of mind.

To assist with a good seal, I would recommend FelPro 1470 gaskets.

If you have one of those "long" oil filters, I highly recommend you
buy one of the "shorties" (i.e. standard filter). I discovered that with
my headers, even the "just slightly longer than shorty" K&N oil
filter would not go on with the Kooks in place. And if you do have a
longer oil filter, I recommend removing it BEFORE installing the
headers, as you might not be able to remove the filter.

I can't think of anything else - I'm sure others will chime in with
suggestions.

EDIT: Be sure to use anti-seize on the header bolts. And speaking
of the socket-head bolts, I bought mine (stainless steel bolts) at
a fastener shop (they cater to the commercial industry) - I bought
all 12 stainless steel bolts for $5.50 - yep $5.50!

EDIT #2 - I didnt realize it until now - this thread should be in
the "Exhaust" discussion.

 

When I installed my pacesetter lt it help to have a friend help hold the headers so I could get the bolts started. It is a good ideal to soak the the bolt's down with PB Blaster, and do that a couple times for about a week. Doing this help you get the bolts out with out breaking any of them. If you have any broken bolts you could run in to a lot of trouble possible having to take the heads off.

 

I highly recommend buying the Nitrile/cloth-back gloves - they are
much stronger than the "surgeon's gloves" - plus, they can be
washed afterwards. I bought the $3.95 GoJo gloves from Oreilly.
You can also find the "Nitrile/cloth-back" gloves are most all hardware
stores, such as Home Depot.

I, too, use home-made "wood tire stands". I spent $40 total in
lumber and bolts. They have a total height of 12" or so, which gets
the car up high, and in a safe manner. You can see one here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...37393294327586

Mine are "adjustable height" blocks, allowing me a choice of car
height at each wheel. Jack stands make me nervous

 

yea it sounds like fun lol but yea i have truck/ suv jack stands that get really high i will soak the bolts

 

the only problem i had was holding the header and starting the bolts, i finally had to have my dad help and then it went fast, i did it all alone and it took my 11 hours, i would say 1 full hour was looking for tools!!

 

yea and if you run a thread chaser through all of the bolt holes it makes for tightening them by hand alot easier. And o yea get inch long header bolts. Thats what I did for mine.

 

take out the oil pressure sensor. i broke mine when i did headers, as well as coolant temp sensor. i knew to take them out, I just forgot.

also, a gun and bullet for when you get frustrated. i had never worked on a car before really, and it was tough for me, but now thinking about it, it was easy, i just didn't know what i was doing. you're doing the right thing by asking around. just make a checklist, MAKE SURE you take out things to avoid spending extra money on replacement parts and you're good. basically a wrench/ratchet job for real.